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Saturday, November 5, 2016

Castra Rubra Winery - 2009 "Bulgariana" red blend [Bulgaria]

As winemaking regions go, most people think of France, Spain, Napa Valley, or Italy as the best. True, they have a lot of good wines, but grapes are grown around the world, and some really fantastic wine has been made elsewhere: Germany, the Balkans, Chile, Argentina, Greece, and historically, even Iran and Iraq. Today's wine is from Bulgaria, a country which has long made wine for Europe but just recently has become very popular in North American markets.


This wine is called "Bulgariana" and is made by Castra Rubra Winery in Izvorova, Haskovo province, Bulgaria. This winemaking region, known as South Thrace or the Thracian Valley, is a viticultural area in southern Bulgaria that has rainy winters and temperate summers, making wines grown there susceptible to drought in the growing season. Thrace is of course a historical location, as well, with many historical (and mythical) battles taking place upon its plains in the times of Alexander the Great.

Modern-day Thrace

This wine's grape blend is as follows, and has some interesting components:

  • 60% Merlot
  • 30% Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 5% Rubin
  • 5% Mavrud

Both Mavrud and Rubin are Bulgarian varietals, with Rubin being a hybrid between Syrah (a favorite) and Niebbolo (another great grape.) Mavrud is a small-yielding grape native to Thrace that's rumored to be ancient clone of Mourvedre (another favorite of mine) that was imported to the area by the Romans. According to wine experts Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson, Mavrud is a wine with strong potential for aging. I guess that makes sense, since this is a 2009 bottle.

It's got a dark red color, almost black, and when candled, it's a blood-red. I was expecting perhaps a more purple-colored wine, given the varietals. 


Wow, interesting. This wine is almost bitter. Not sharp, just bitter. The texture is somewhat dry, a bit salty, but not tannic or astringent. There's a slightly smoky element there, which is nice, with some berry skin flavors (like blackberries) tossed in. As the wine warms up, and as I drink more, the bitterness fades away. I'm left with a somewhat dry finish and savory aftertaste.

In the end - very interesting and different. I don't think I've ever had a wine like this. I can certainly appreciate the craft, and I liked the smokiness and the dryness. The blackberries notes I detected are probably evidence of the Merlot in the wine. However, given that I prefer jammy, fruity French reds, I don't know of the "Bulgariana" is right for me. Something just didn't sit right with me about it.

I got this at Costco for $7.99, so it's not a bad price. If you're into wine, and want a new experience - give this a try. I didn't like it personally, but for the price, it's worth a try. In terms of pairing - I'd pair this with perhaps a chicken dish, or maybe a lightly-spiced steak.


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