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Sunday, June 23, 2019

Cheluna Brewing Co. - "Low Rider Extra Añejo" lager

While at SAVOR, I met Jennifer and Javier Pérez, founders and owners of Aurora, Colorado's Cheluna Brewing Co. Nestled outside the Rocky Mountains, Cheluna was founded in 2017 and draws on on strong Mesoamerican influences for its beers and design. According to their website, founders Jennifer and Javier spent decades working in community service, in volunteer corps, and in the teaching profession before turning their attention to a public service of another sort - making delicious suds! The name of the brewery is a portmanteau of "chela", Mexican slang for beer, and "luna", moon. The sun and moon are important symbols in prehispanic culture, so you'll find those symbols prominently at Cheluna.

As you may recall from SAVOR coverage, Cheluna served both a mango / chile witbier and a lager; I tried the lager and enjoyed it so much that Jennifer kindly gave me a bottle to take home and review: the "Low Rider Extra Añejo", a 4.50% ABV lager, aged in mezcal barrels for almost a year.


Mezcal is an awesome spirit, and one worth exploring if you have not done so already. A liquor made from agave, there's dozens of types of mezcal and hundreds of varieties of agave, all with different taste profiles ranging from dry to creamy to smoky. If you don't take your liquor straight, then use mezcal however you would use tequila in a mixed drink.

So this is the first beer I have encountered be aged in these barrels. Jen and Javi sourced the wooden vessels - which are not available for sale in the US, by the way - from some friends who make mezcal in a rural village all the way down in Oaxaca state, in southern Mexico. Made in a dirt-floor distillery without electricity, a horse turns the stone wheel to crush the single-species agave. Very traditional and very authentic. Let's dive in - I can't wait.


Pours a deep golden color, quite attractive and unusual for a lager, and generates a mild aroma. When agitated, it smells a bit like wheat with a touch of smoke.

The first sip is pure bliss - there's a strong burst of salt and agave in the first instant, much like the finish of an Espadin mezcal, followed closely by the character of the Weyermann base malt. Some moderate flaked wheat flavors are there too, with a touch of dryness, but whoa, the agave and smoke flavors really dominate throughout the experience. The finish is where I get most of the light lager flavors, like notes of water cracker, and there's a touch of salt and smoke on the aftertaste. Super refreshing and tasty, and one sip invites another.

I've had tequila barrel-aged beers before, but nothing comes close to delivering the quality of flavors that this beer has. The base is stronger than your typical fizzy attenuated beer, which helps amp up the flavors and deliver that smoky, salty, delicious mezcal character - but not overdoing, either. I could see how overaging (or underaging) might have rendered this beer a weak imitation, but fortunately it's just right.

Bottom line, this is probably best lager I have ever had the pleasure to drink. It takes a basic style, done well, and adds a unique twist which captures, and keeps, my attention. It's light enough to enjoy often but something you want to savor when you do. My SAVOR tasting partner, Laura, said this was her favorite "light" beer of the whole evening. Not only was it mine as well, but I feel this beer has made it into my list of top 15 beers I've ever had in my life. I do hope to make it out to Colorado - it's a visit long overdue - but when I do, first stop is Cheluna.


Saturday, June 15, 2019

SAVOR 2019 - DC's Biggest Beer Event of the Year!

SAVOR is back! Avid readers of this blog will recall that for the past two years, I have been invited by the fine folks at The Brewer's Association to attend the 2019 SAVOR: An American Craft Beer and Food Experience. It's DC's grandest food-and-beer festival, and once again I get to attend and report back. Joining me to assist with reviews and interviews is colleague and beer aficionado Laura K., who has turned up in the finest of seasonally-appropriate color palates.


Once again, a big thank you The Rosen Group in New York, who handles PR for the Brewer's Association and provided Laura and I with a media credential and complimentary tickets to attend.

Like last year, we sat down beforehand and planned out which beers we wanted to try. With close to 200 beers on tap, it was tough to choose and we had to be strategic with our time. The plan was to choose mostly new beers and new breweries, with a few familiar faces tossed in. The beer selection at SAVOR is interesting - of the 80-odd breweries in attendance, some bring their latest and greatest; others bring brewhouse rarities and vintage selections, and some instead opt for everyday staples. Each brewery can bring two beers to serve (with the exception of some of the "Supporter" level sponsors, who bring three) so it definitely pays to sit down beforehand and figure out a plan of action, which we did.

We arrived at The National Building Museum and were greeted by a line stretching around the block. Media was given access to the venue thirty minutes before, so we breezed right past the line and into the Grand Tasting Hall.


After dropping off our bags at the media area, snapped some photos in front of the step-and-repeat. Taking advantage of the fact the general public wasn't inside yet - and thus the area was a lot less crowded - we hit the beers early. Let's do this.


Crazy Mountain Brewing Co. - "Lawyers, Guns, and Money" & "'Horseshoes and Hand Grenades"


I suppose we are starting off the evening with a bang - this is Crazy Mountain Brewing Co.'s "Lawyers, Guns, and Money", a 10.00% ABV American style barleywine. They use all traditional English malts, to give it that authentic character, but hop it with Amarillo and El Dorado hops, and then the beer is dry-hopped with Chinook.

What we think: not much aroma, sort of as expected. Moderate oak flavors, not syrupy, and a strong hop character that really brightens up the beer. There's a crispness there that's quite nice and refreshing; maybe it's the dry-hopping, who knows, but it's a bit more...lively than some barleywines I've had. I like the take on the style - very cool, both Laura and I would have this again, for sure. I wonder how this would age - if it even would? Also, it's cool that it comes in a can!

On to the next Crazy Mountain beer - "Horseshoes & Hand Grenades", a 6.00% ABV extra special bitter (ESB).


Interesting - another American take on a traditional English style. Crazy Mountain named it because, according to them, the beer is close to an amber but also has some ESB elementts. But close only counts in horseshoes and hand grenades, right?

What we think: As expected, the body of this beer is very malty and light, with some caramel sweetness in there. But, but....you can really taste the hops; that sort of bitter coppery hops that cuts through the sweetness. The malt profile is nice, and I find the beer very well balanced and fine tuned. Clean finish. It's easy drinking, but more aggressive than some of the other styles which is a fun take. Laura has never had this type before, and enjoyed it. The cans and packages has really cool artwork, actually. The brewery is going for a "Where the Wild Things Are" vibe, using actual indigenous creatures from Colorado. You can tell they've put a lot of time into this!

OK, time to move along! Only 3.5 hours left.


Legal Draft Beer Company - "Ginned Up Charges"

Here's an interesting creation from Arlington, TX-based Legal Draft Beer Company - a 10.10% ABV IPA.


There's a ton of urban renewal in Arlington, and Legal Draft is part of it. Camped out in a renovated service station, these folks started with their "Smash" IPA, made with two-row barley and Citra hops, and then aged it in a gin barrel from Treaty Oak distillery for two months. This beer is meant to evoke a gin and tonic, so bottoms up!

What we think: The aroma is a touch fruity; I'm picking up full flavors of lavender, grapefruit, and juniper in this beer. Can taste those Citra hops for sure. Very tasty and refreshing, and doesn't taste like 10.10% ABV! A tad juicy, with a slight acidic component, this isn't a true imitation of the cocktail (thankfully) but definitely picking up the hints here. Barrel aging is a nice touch, and this beer would be good for folks who like drier IPAs I think.


Cheluna Brewing Co. - "Chilango" witbier

So, I will get more into Aurora, CO-based Cheluna Brewing Company in a future post because one of the beers they brought, a mezcal-barrel aged lager, is absolutely out of this world and deserves its own post. Brewery owner and founder Jennifer Pérez, who was on hand for the tasting, was kind enough to pass along a bottle for me to try. But now we're going to focus on their "Chilango", a 5.40% ABV German-style habanero / mango witbier.


What we think: Nice aroma of peppers...beer is slightly sweet at the beginning, thanks to the mangoes, and the chile flavor builds nicely throughout. The peppers are most noticeable on the beer's aftertaste, and provides a nice tingling flavor on the tongue and the back of the throat. Heat is moderate. In terms of weight, the beer is more on the lighter end of things, but I think that format pairs well with the peppers since it shows off the heat. I'd recommend this to folks who like a lively, spicy beer. Very refreshing, super tasty, and something I'd have again for sure.

More on the other beer later! Stay tuned.


New Realm Brewing Co. - "Imperial Oaxaca Chocha" stout


It seems everyone's taking a shot at Mexi-mocha beers these days, but that's fine because I really like the style. This beer was made as a small batch release for one of New Realm's clients, and to make it they added chocolate, cinnamon, vanilla, Guajillo chiles "hopside", or during the hopping process. Total production of this stout was only 40 barrels (abbreviated bbls).

What we think: This is much more on stout end than it is on the "Mexican" end...there's a bit of tingling on the finish from peppers, but the main flavors are of spice and baker's chocolate. Laura is getting a lot more cinnamon than I do. Coats the mouth nicely, and is probably the silkiest of beers we've had thus far.


Daredevil Brewing Co. - "First Noel Bock" smoked bock

Yes! I was really glad to see some smokebeers on the menu. As you may recall, there's a style of beer out there that involves smoking malts to provide a savory flavor; these are also called "rauchbiers." I did a review on Snitz Creek's version a while back. Daredevil Brewing Co. makes it their mission to do German styles well, so let's see how they approach this style. Traditionally in Bamberg, Germany (home of the smokebeer style) they do an oak bock as a winter celebration beer, and this beer was meant to emulate that hence the name "First Noel." Like the authentic Schenkerla, Daredevil makes a smoke marzen, a smoked helles, and a smoked bock...I wish I could try them!


What we think: look at that brownish ruby color! Very nice. There's an immediate burst of smoke as soon as it hits your tongue. The malt flavors are really "chewy" with lots of smoky and woodsy notes.  Very soft mouthfeel, nice long finish. Laura likens the smoke to a campfire, as opposed to the smoke one finds in Scotch. We find this to be an excellent example of the style, light to medium bodied, and full of smoky flavors while simultaneously being super drinkable. It's paired with pork belly, which suits it perfectly. A lovely beer and one perfect for anyone who loves authentic German dark beers.


Old Stove Brewing Co. - "Swords and Whiskey" strong ale

I've never heard of Old Stove, despite having been to Seattle half a dozen times. But who could resist a beer called "Swords and Whiskey"? This is a 10.30% ABV barrel-aged strong ale; paired with a braised beef Burgundy.


What we think: WHOA. God, that's woody. Seriously, it's like chewing on a bark or a branch. There's a good dose of sweetness from the barrel aging, a strong showing of chewy, roasted malts, but the main flavor element here is boozy, aged wood. This is a bulldozer of a palate-wrecker!


MadTree Brewing Co. - "2018 Joon" kolsch

Madtree Brewing Co., a Cincinnati-based brewing company, has one of the coolest set-ups at SAVOR. I like the pint-glasses-turned-flowerpots and wood slabs and gnomes. Kinda fun! They brought an amber ale, which won a gold medal at the 2018 Great American Beer Fest, and also their "2018 Joon", a barrel-aged kolsch aged in gin barrels (which once had bourbon.) Then they added juniper and ginger and aged it for half a year.



What we think: Wow, really light and snappy. The fresh juniper and herbal notes are super evident and delicious, kind of like a dry gin. Ginger is nice and noticeable,  and packs this light beer with flavor. A bit hazy. Not what we were expecting, actually. Laura isn't a fan of barrel-aged beers, but she really enjoyed this one. I think it's cool that they were able to make a light, barrel aged beer with a spice and botanical effervescence. Fans of junipered and dry gins like DC's own Ivy City gin (or Tanqueray, or Bombay Sapphire) would love this beer. I know I did!


Wooden Robot Brewery - "Thicket as Thieves" sour ale

It was good to see Charlotte, NC-based Wooden Robot Brewery at SAVOR. They feel really familiar, but I can't recall if I've had anything by them. They brought two beers - "Thicket as Thieves", a 6.00% ABV blackberry sour ale, and a pumpkin saison, too, which is a bold move for the season (I guess pumpkin beers are year round now?) The pumpkin saison didn't appeal to us, but the sour beer did! Let's dive in.

What we think: Laura immediately recoils upon smelling the beer - wow, super sour! I don't even have to drink it to know that it's a sour bomb. Aged in an oak foeder then re-fermented on 2 pounds per gallon of local blackberries, this beer is mixed-culture but smells like Lactobacillus.

Whoa, this beer is sour as hell. Really good but intense, lots of white oak and candied fruit notes, a touch of salt. Blackberry juice is dominant here, not a lot of skins or vinous flavors. I really like this, but it's far too intense for any sustained drinking. 

Ivanhoe Park Brewing Co. - "Tupac Shaporter" porter

OK, sometimes you see a beer with a cool name and you just HAVE to try it. This is true for Florida's own Ivanhoe Park Brewing Co., who was listed as bringing two beers - their "Tupac Shaporter" and a sour IPA, "Suck It, Trebek!" I love breweries that have a sense of humor with their beer names, which brought us to Ivanhoe. Unfortunately their brewing schedule did not permit them to bring "Suck It, Trebek!", but we cracked a can of their 7.20% ABV Baltic porter, "Tupac Shaporter". Made with lager yeast and lactose, this beer earned a gold medal at a Florida beer competition. Let's see how it is!


What we think: Dark brown in the glass, aromas on brand for a porter. It's very soft thanks to the lactose, and has a well-rounded blend of chocolate, roast malts, and a touch of baking spice. Moderate sweetness, no overpowering oil or roast. Laura is a big fan. Beyond it being a milk porter - don't see those too often - there aren't any particularly unique flavors here, it's just....good. It's got a perfect weight and is quite tasty. I'd definitely drink this again.


Rogue Ales and Spirits - "Batsquatch" IPA


Hey, here's something! A new creation from Rogue. I've had a lot of beer from this Oregon powerhouse in the past, but not this one. I wasn't feeling an IPA right now, so Laura's taking the lead on this 6.70% ABV hazy IPA:

Pretty hazy yellow color in the glass, aroma is full of fruit. Flavor is sweet and juicy with notes of green melons and tropical fruit. Surprisingly little hops, not much bitterness, with a bit of yeast on the aftertaste. A surprisingly easy-drinking IPA! Laura says it's great with the passionfruit panna cotta.


Deschutes Brewery - "Tempranillo Flanders" 

Pacific Northwest is here in force! Bend, OR-based Deschutes is one of the most well-known PNW breweries out here on the East Coast, and they have a variety of really neat "big" beers like their "Black Butte XX" and the "Abyss". Today's is a new entry in this category - an 11.70% ABV Flemish red ale made with Tempranillo grape must from Abacela Vineyards. 


What we think: Hey, this is great. Not nearly as sour as other Flemish ales. Moderately vinous, some strawberry and cherry skin notes in there, and a touch dry, especially on the finish. Lovely reddish color. It reminds me a bit of the wine / beer hybrid "Yount" from last year's SAVOR. Super tasty, and sure doesn't taste like 11.70%! Very cool.


Second Chance Beer Co. - "The Barrel Experience Journey 2" stout

Let's tack to the sweeter side of beers with this offering from San Diego's Second Chance Brewing. This 10.70% ABV stout spent 28 months in Woodford Reserve barrels and was finished with toasted coconut, macadamia, and coconut sugar. Sounds super tasty, but coconut is a tricky ingredient to work with in beer so we'll have to see.


Wow! OK - there's a couple of layers here, and they present themselves one after the other - up front you get doughy nut flavors (must be that macadamia coming through), some baking spice, a touch of cinammon. As flavor develops, the baker's chocolate comes through, thick and powdery, like Nesquik. Finally there's that coconut, coming through with flavors of moist, meaty, shredded coconut. Delicious and super soft, we're not tasting much sweetness from alcohol but we do feel a bit of a tingle in the back of the throat. Laura gets more macadamia flavors than I do, but we can both agree we've got a winner for sure! I'm most pleased with the way the flavors are presented - a stout I can really ponder and savor.

Switchback Brewing Co. - "Smoke 40" IPA

Back to smoke! It's great to see multiple smokebeers at this event. Switchback Brewing Co. had several smokebeers, in fact, including their "Bisou", a smoked saison. The "Smoke 40" is a unique twist on the style - part of their Flynn on Fire Smokebeer Initiative, is an 5.90% ABV IPA made by combining a 40% smoked malt base with a massive dose of Mosaic hops. They tried a few prior iterations - a "Smoke 50", for example - but settled on this blend.


What we think: Oh, yum! This is super tasty. It's not super smoky, actually, which is fine. The hops add an interesting dimension which is lacking in some of the super malty, mesquite-style smokebeers. Even their lighter offering, the "Bisou", was more in-your-face with the smoke. In terms of textures, it's much crisper than I was expecting. Delivers nice tingly savory notes in the mouth after swallowing. Laura says it's like drinking in a summer night around the bonfire...I couldn't agree more. We both agree that Switchback has one of the best niche lineups of the night - all smokebeers!


The Lost Abbey - "Zinners & Saints" sour

San Marcos, CA-based Lost Abbey made this year's gift beer, the "SAVOR Sin", but they also brought along their "Zinners and Saints", a 7.00% ABV sour blonde ale aged in French oak with Zinfandel grapes. As you can see, wine / beer hybrids are a thing now!


What we think: Very similar to the "Tempranillo Flanders" in terms of flavor - slightly dry, moderate acidic notes, and a full tannic wine character. This one is heavier in terms of texture, however, and a bit "chewier" - more grain in there. There's also a touch more sour here - maybe a function of the type of grape must used. In any event, we like it although it's not our favorite of the night. Cool name, though. I can't wait to see what the gift beer, "SAVOR Sin", is going to be like.


Union Brewing Co. - "Older Pro" gose

So at SAVOR 2017, Union had the blueberry version of this beer, which ran out by the time I got there. Their "Old Pro" is a standard, yet delicious, gose, and this is an amped-up version of the base beer with blackcurrants added. Then the beer is aged in Chardonnay barrels.


What we think: Pours out like a foamy wine. Bright fruit flavors, definitely heavier on the blackcurrants than on the wine. Remember, this one is aged in wine barrels, unlike some of the other wine-y beers which actually use grape must (freshly-pressed grape juice that contains stems, pits, seeds, and skins.) I like the texture here - definitely retains some of the saltiness of the original. Major wave of sour on the finish and aftertaste. Fans of the original should try this for sure - they have numerous versions with a wide variety of different fruits and berries used.


O.H.S.O. Eatery + Nanobrewery - "Peanut Brittle Blonde"

I admit - I love peanut butter beers. From Molly Pitcher's "Peanut Butter Porter" to DuClaw's "Sweet Baby Jesus", there's a lot to be said for the addition of peanut butter in silky, sweet dark beers. But I haven't seen one in a lighter version before, so I'm excited to see Arizona's own O.H.S.O.'s "Peanut Brittle Blonde." To make this 6.60% ABV beer, they take a blonde ale base, then add lactose, tons of peanut powder, sea salt, and honey then dry-hop it with three pounds per barrel of whole roasted honey peanuts. Sounds great!


What we think: One of the stars of the show. This beer actually tastes like peanut brittle! It's super smooth, the flavors don't taste artificial, and while the peanut flavor is strong and up-front, the salt and honey turn this peanut butter beer into a peanut brittle beer. The lactose smooths it out and makes the beer soft and drinkable. ABV is right for these kind of flavors. Truly delicious and I wouldn't mind having access to this all the time. To quote the brewer - they wanted a dessert beer that would turn heads. Well, hang the banner on the aircraft carrier - mission accomplished!

After we went back for seconds, Laura liked this so much she wondered aloud if we could find some actual peanut brittle somewhere to go with it. Odds are not in our favor this time of night, so best we can do is keep going and push through another couple of beers. My notes indicated we had twenty minutes left at the event, so we had to keep moving!


Caldera Brewing Co. - "Bourbon Barrel Aged Mogli" porter

Caldera was at SAVOR last year, and had one of the most memorable beers - their "CoCoNutty Blonde" ale. Christine and I both loved it last year, so I was excited to see Caldera back at The National Building Museum for SAVOR 2019! It's been a long night, so let's end it with a bang: the "Bourbon Barrel Aged Mogli", an 8.50% ABV imperial porter.



To make this beer, they took their "Mogli", an imperial chocolate porter, then tossed in oak spirals soaked in Makers Mark, then added liquid chocolate, then all of that was aged in Heaven Hill bourbon barrel for four to five months. That's a lot of wood aging and a lot of heavy-duty ingredients!

What we think: Dark, definitely some wood sweetness on nose....but waaaay lighter than we expected. Laura, who typically doesn't seek out wood-aged beers, initially didn't want to try, but she had a sip of mine and loved it and went to get her own. This beer isn't a palate-wrecker - it's full-bodied yet the wood and chocolate flavors take a back seat to the malts. You'd think all that aging and oak would make this a wood bomb, but the flavors are surprisingly mellow but very enjoyable. These guys are awesome, and this was the perfect finale to the night. 


Well, as usual, we didn't have enough time try all the ones we wanted. At this point, we had moved to another brewery when last call was announced and the house lights came up. Laden with swag, including a few bottles of beer, some cool bottle openers, and a bunch of business cards and stickers, we grabbed our bags from the media area and made our way home.

For craft beer lovers, SAVOR is worth attending. Tickets are $150 each, all inclusive, and while that is a lot of money, I think it's worth attending at least once. There's tons of fancy beer, delicious food, and attendees get to meet brewers from all over the country. I hope to be back next year! Stay tuned for two SAVOR-related posts: a review of "SAVOR Sin", this year's gift beer, and Cheluna's "Low Rider Extra Anejo". Thanks again for reading!



Sunday, June 2, 2019

Right Proper Brewing Co. - "Vintage Le Flaneur" sour ale

On Friday I swung by Right Proper Brewing Co.'s Shaw Brewpub to see what was on tap and have a pint after a long week. DC-area readers may have tried their "Raised By Wolves", a light and tasty American pale ale available in six-packs, or maybe had their smaller-batch stuff like "Baron Corvo" or"Astral Weeks", both in 16.9oz bottles. Well, the brewpub has these and much more, including the subject of today's review, "Vintage Le Flaneur".

This beer is a vin de cereale aged in sherry casks, clocking in at 10.00% ABV. It's open fermented with mixed-culture yeast; in this case Brettanomyces and Lactobacillus. Now, I admit that I have never heard of the term vin de cereale before. There's no info online about this style, so given the French translation - "wine of grains" - I would presume it to be something like a barleywine or wheatwine. A quick call to the taproom confirmed that vin de cereale is a term they coined to be essentially that, although a soured version...somewhat like an imperial soured ale. According to the brewery, they use a special technique to barrel-age the beer and then draw part out of the cask, replenishing the aging beer with new product to keep the vanillins and the yeast. Sounds neat!

Well, just one whiff of it shows off that Lactobacillus. Slight vinegar on the nose gives it away for sure. Taste does not disappoint, either - this vinous and fruity beer is lighter in body than expected, especially given the fact it's 10.00% ABV, but full of flavors nonetheless. I'm getting moderate raspberry notes, some fig, and a bit of black cherry with a nice dose of vinegar. There's a soft, refreshing quality to this and the flavors linger long in your mouth after swallowing, accompanied by that lactic astringency. This might be a nice option for those looking to dabble in the maltolactic fruit beers without going for full Flemish ales. Head down to the Shaw Brewpub and pick one up for $6.75 for an 8oz snifter!