Bell's Brewery - 2018 "Third Coast" barleywine

Avid readers will recall my various barleywine reviews over the years: offerings from Uinta, Southern Tier, numerous Stone variants. of course Sierra Nevada, and even local Atlas Brewing Co. have all been investigated. For those unfamiliar, barleywine (also spelled 'barley wine') is a type of strong ale originating in England that generally weighs in at 8% to 12% ABV. Barleywine is called such as it has close to the ABV of wine yet is made with grains like barley. There are two main kinds of barleywine: American and English. American barleywines are hoppier, more bitter, and lighter. English style is sweeter and darker. Both, I find, are rather delicious and generally have higher alcohol content than ordinary beers.

I want to say that the style is going strong, but it isn't. I've been seeing fewer and fewer barleywines on the market today, in part due to the death of the 22oz bottle format. There are a few, to be sure, but not like their used to be. So of course whenever I see one, I'm game to try. Today's is one of the only barleywines I've ever seen sold in 12oz six-packs; and is a 10.20% ABV "old ale" made by Comstock, MI-based Bell's Brewery. This one was made in 2018, and as you may recall, barleywine ages well, so now's a good time to see how it's progressing. 

It pours slowly, and generates a generous, uniquely-barleywine aroma...sort of a mix of booze, crackers, and caramel. It's medium-full bodied, with nice oak, and some apricot. The bitterness has melted away somewhat, quickly actually for a barleywine (in my experience, it usually takes 5+ years for the character to dissolve into a more malty, murky state.) 

Lovely and a good example of a barleywine that's prime for drinking. I constantly make the mistake of letting this age too long, so I think now's the time to finish this. Apropos of nothing - Each Peach Market in Mt. Pleasant has started carrying this, and I was able to snag a 2020 variant there as well. 

Orin Swift Cellars - 2020 "Palermo" Cabernet Sauvignon

A little Christmas Eve tradition I have for myself is to make a fancy meal, drink high-quality wines, and watch the most non-Christmas movie of all, The Hunt for Red October. So I grabbed myself a porterhouse, made some mashed potatoes, and found a California cabernet to pair. 

It's a 2020 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from famed producer Dave Phinney, making wines under the Orin Swift label. We've carried Orin Swift stuff at D'Vines for a while, easily recognizable by their funky labels. This 15.30% ABV wine is aged for 14 months in French Oak barrels, 30% being new oak (not second fill, etc.) 

Also, the bottles are very heavy and thick...initially, judging by the weight, I thought it was a liter bottle. Nope, it's just a big, chonky 750mL. 

I left it out to decant for a few hours in my Reidel magnum decanter, giving it a swish and swirl every 30 minutes or so. Initial aroma is of tobacco, leather, and some earth. Not much fruit or spice. 

On the tongue, it's not as big and burly as I'd expect a Napa cab to be, but that's fine by me. California cabernets have a reputation for being powerhouse reds; while they can be, they can also present like the Palermo: silky, delicious, dark and smooth with some good structure and complexity. There's some dark fruit notes in there, like blueberry with some chocolate. It's off-dry, which I find fits nicely with the meal. There's very little alcohol flavors to speak of, and the moderate dryness gives it a nice feeling as the wine is sipped. I kept some in the decanter and came back to it the following day; the flavors didn't change too much, and perhaps the wine was a touch softer than directly out of the bottle. 

I picked this up at Irving Wines & Spirits in Mt. Pleasant, DC, for $54.99, and while it's beyond what I'd suggest most people spend on a bottle, it's a a holiday treat for me. 

Scotch & Cigars at the Wharf

Thanks to a chance encounter at El Cielo with a portfolio manager, I was able to snag an invite to the exclusive LVMH whisky and cigar night at Officina at the Wharf, a fancy Italian spot on the waterfront in DC. LVMH stands for Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy, a luxury brand conglomerate which owns a wide variety of goods (you can probably guess a few of them.)

Despite recovering from the previous night's Premium Cigar Association holiday party, in which I definitely overextended myself, I made it out to Officina at the Wharf for some whiskey, cigars, and holiday cheer. 

Started out with a Penicillin cocktail, using house-made ginger syrup and Ardbeg (also a LVMH product.)

I mingled and networked, connecting with a few of the LVMH folks I know, and as the clock struck 9, we lit up. My first cigar was a Cohiba Red Dot, which was fine for the first half before deciding to burn unevenly then self-destruct. So I turned to the star of the night: Cohiba Royale, a medium-full bodied smoke made with Nicaraguan, Dominican, and Honduran tobaccos. It was remarkably well-rolled with a nice structure, presenting some darker natural flavors (soil, coffee, wood) with a touch of sweetness. 

Glenmorangie was the other part of the night, with three whiskies on offer: the 14yr "Quinta Ruban" port cask; the 15yr, and the 18yr. All were good; I have not had the 15 or the 18 before. Both were lighter than I expected, and I used distilled water only for the 15. The 18 was quite delicate and wasn't overly sherried, which was nice. 

Aside from great networking, I was able to meet some new folks and also got to reconnect with Sam Huston, one of my old vendors at D'Vines. He's now with Westward Whiskey, and we'll talk about them in the New Year once I have the chance to try some of their stuff. Overall, a nice event, private and fun, with some promo cigars to boot on the way out (and a Glenmorangie gift bag!)

District Fray - profile on Lauren Paylor O'Brien

My latest article for District Fray Magazine centers on DC mixologist Lauren Paylor O'Brien, fresh off her major win on Netflix's Drink Masters. This was a pretty straightforward interview, but it does show just how multifaceted mixology can be. Bartenders don't just show up for work, throw some ingredients in a set of mixing cups, and clock out. There's tons of research, development, trial & error, and learning that goes into being a good drink master. 

I was not drinking anything while doing this interview, as it was conducted at 1pm on a Tuesday, but in honor of LP's love of sherry, I poured myself a glass of Oloroso when I got home. 

https://districtfray.com/articles/lauren-paylor-obrien-lp-drink-masters-dc/

Singlecut Beersmiths - "Those Clouds All Disappear" Imperial IPA

 Here's an interesting IPA I tried today from Singlecut Beersmiths out of Queens, NY. It's called "Those Clouds All Disappear" and is an 8.00% ABV imperial IPA. The hop bill is unknown, but it is advertised as being 88 IBUs. The soup can label is fun; I'm surprised Campbell's hasn't sued for overuse of their iconic cans. 

Yum! This is actually quite delicate for an imperial IPA - it's a bit grassy, with some soft tropical fruit like tangerine and a very creamy, soft texture. No lactose is used to my knowledge. The flavors are very mild, slightly sweet, and actually just perfect for an IIPA in my opinion. The ABV is high enough to hold my attention but moderate enough not to punch me in the face. Good lingering finish in just the right ways. 

I'm impressed. Cost for me was $5.49 for a single 16oz can at Irving Wines & Spirits...would I pay $22 for four? Yeah, maybe.  

Other Half Brewing - "Green City" IPA and "2nd Anniversary" Triple IPA

Here's a twofer - a look at two IPAs from Other Half Brewing. They've got two locations, one in DC and one in New York City, so I think I need to go to both places to truly experience it. 

First up is "Green City" IPA, enjoyed in a plastic cup sitting in the shadow of the Flatiron Building in Manhattan. I was up for a long weekend and needed some refreshment so I grabbed this 16oz can at the kiosk and sat down with a nice view of the Empire State Building to try this beverage.

Woof, ok, this is C H U N K Y. Full of sediment, this 7.00% ABV New England style IPA is almost like orange juice pulp. Wow. It's actually made with oats, which tones down the bitterness and provides an interesting texture. There's a touch of piney hops, too, which I'm detecting mostly on the finish. There's no real bite to it and doesn't have much flavor to linger. Pretty neat, and I like the texture. 

And second is "2 Anniversary", a 10.00% ABV triple IPA made for their DC brewing location's second trip around the sun. This beer is made with a whole kitchen sink of hops: Citra, Riwaka, Cashmere, Vic Secret, Citra Cryo, Citra Incognito, and Cashmere Cryo. I haven't heard of many of these. 

Pretty good, definitely feeling the booze on this one. Lighter than many other TIPAs I have had...some are quite potent and sweet, this is definitely softer in terms of bitterness. No idea the IBUs, but probably not more than 50. It's pretty fruity, not super dank, but there's some soft ripeness in there which is nice. $21.99 for 4 pints, so not cheap but not exorbitant these days. Happy anniversary, Other Half!

Lost Generation Brewing Co - a fun new opening!

Recently I wrote a piece for District Fray Magazine about Lost Generation Brewing Co., DC's newest brewpub in Eckington. The piece can be found here:

https://districtfray.com/articles/lost-generation-brewing/

I went on Saturday, October 29th, for their grand opening and it was quite the success...despite having such a cavernous space, it was standing room only and absolutely packed. At times it was tough to reach the bar because of how busy it was (which is a good problem to have if you're a brewer!) so if this is any indication, the pub will have a fantastic run. The only suggestion I might give is to make a dedicated lane at the bar for walk-ups, to make it easier to order rather than having guests push past others to order. 

I tried a number of their beers, all of which were delicious, but I wanted to spotlight one that was funky and neat - their "Peach Cobbler a la Mode", a 5.00% ABV pastry sour. I'm a big fan - it was sweet but not excessively so, and the fresh peach flavors came through quite well and balanced the mild sour tang. Consistency-wise, my first pour (below) was quite thick and bubbly; the second was more "stable" so not sure what's going on there. If you're a fan of peach beers, this is definitely worth a try!

Mi Vida on 14th - Bebidas Deliciosas y Comida Fantastica!

DC's got no shortage of good restaurants, and I'm always down to check out new (or reimagined) spaces. Recently I had the chance to visit Mi Vida on 14th and T, NW - the old Match Box space is newly-bedecked in bright colors, intricate patterns, and truly eye-catching.

The inside is dark yet airy, and the industrial look matches well with blond wood and low-Kelvin lighting. It was nice outside so I sat on the patio along T Street. Outside, there's probably 20 tables, with chairs made of woven, bright-orange chunky paracord. Perfect for people-watching right across from Compass Rose!

To start I had "La Frozen", a thirst-quenching chilled concoction of Sauza blanco tequila, mango, ginger, passionfruit, fresh lime, and agave. It's very spirit-forward, so if you like boozy cocktails, this is for you. The ginger is a nice touch, too, and the mango and passionfruit is balanced nicely to give just the right mix of fruit. 

By the way, they have a *very* extensive agave tasting menu. Dozens of mezcals and tequilas are listed on the menu, including lesser-known offerings like sotol and raicilla. There are some pretty cashy labels on there, too, so now that Espita is gone this seems to be THE place in DC for high-end agave spirits. They've got flights, too, if you want to try a curated selection.

So what about the food? I had the chance to sit down with Joe Jo Jennings, guest relations manager for the KNEAD group, to talk a little bit about food philosophy. According to Joe Jo, the restaurant is focused around communal plates and sharing menus – large sample platters for families or groups. I didn’t get one (although I feel like I probably I ate enough for one!) and judging by what's on offer, they’re a good spread of the stuff on the menu. Here they call the family platter "Sabores," or "tastes" in Spanish.

“Sabores is a sample of who we are”, said Joe Jo, “This isn’t a Tex-Mex spot and there’s no sizzling fajita plates or yellow corn chips." That is true, and the menu reflects a more elevated experience. They sure do stuff you here - probably one of the more generous restaurants in terms of offerings. Here's a snapshot of what I had:

• Huevos Rellenos: tastly little eggs that are filled with XYZ. Great for a snack and very reasonably priced ($1.50 each, so perfect add-ons to a meal.) 
• Queso Fundido: an exercise is hot, gooey, cheesy gluttony - filled with chorizo, herbs, and cheese. It also is served on a small, square cast-iron which is cute.
• Bunido: Corn cakes. It’s a touch sweeter than the cornbread you might find at “Southern” places, rumbly and works kinda like a dessert. Not like corn pudding, though!
• Guacamole: pretty snappy, actually, with a kick of heat. Also very good, and some of the best guac I think I've had for that reason. Chips are also awesome. 
• Mole enchiladas: The mole is made here (dark, a bit smoky, and heavy on the chocolate) and very good. It has a regular spice amount, nothing too hot, but instead presents a deep and rich flavor. Richer than any mole I think I’ve had, and well worth it. Save some extra mole sauce to spoon over the tortillas.
• Churros: I'm not a fan of sweet desserts, but these are really good. They're accompanied by three suaces: berry, dulce de leche, and chocolate. Not as sweet as some churros I've had, which is good. Nice and crunchy too!

Service was impeccable – seated promptly, waters refilled without asking, and Not the place for quick bar bites or tapas, this is a big meal kind of place. If you’re lucky enough to get Keandre as a server, you are in for a great time. Come hungry!

The Side Project Cellar - Wild Fermentation in St. Louis!

You may remember Side Project Brewing from SAVOR this year...they brought an awesome barleywine as well as their "Oud Fermier", which I found fantastic. Well, they're only a few miles down the road from Urban Chestnut, the subject of my last post, so why not! Hopped in an Uber and made it to the brewery. 

Closed that day. 

Bummer! I did discover, however, that a few blocks away was Side Project's other location, The Side Project Cellar. Open for business that day, and pouring beers. Let's do it!

I met up with a former colleague, and we had a nice sampling of what they had to offer. The taproom, if you can call it that, is a cozy and chic tasting area with a generous spread of whiskeys and other distilled spirits. I'm not here for any draft beer, though - I'm here for the bottle library. 

The raison d'etre here are bottle-conditioned beers, many of which spend quite a while mellowing. These are usually northwestern European styles, and are often served in 750mL formats. Their list of bottles available was respectable but not overwhelming, and I settled on the "Saison du Fermier Blend #6", a 7.00% ABV saison aged for 10 months in Pinot Noir puncheons, then bottle conditioned for 3 months. Apparently they typically use Chardonnay casks to age their saisons, which makes sense given the complementary flavor profiles of Chardonnay and that style of beer. I believe they use spelt as the base, and also wild Missouri yeast.

Pours swiftly into tulip glasses and generates thick, lacy foam.

Fantastic! Some heavy wood character on this, more so than some of their other offerings (I also had the "Biere du Pays" and the "Provence Blueberry Rosehip".) I'm getting a main backbone of open fermented tartness, but more rounded, and deep in flavor. It's less piquant than their lighter, more fruit forward offerings. The touch of pinot sweetness mellows out the more astringent notes you might find, as well, and makes this beer wonderful to savor. 

Tabitha and Roilen behind the bar took great care of us, and I do believe Side Project deserves to be on any beer lover's list if they travel to The Gateway City. Bottle-fermented beers and Belgian/Flanders styles are really worth investigating if you haven't already, and it's cool that there's a whole place dedicated just to it!

Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. - St. Louis, Missouri

Hello from St. Louis! Recently I had the chance to spend a week travelling across Missouri, and of course, had to try the beer and food. No matter where you are in the world, with a few notable exceptions, you’ll find beer being brewed. For this trip, I started in St. Louis, a historic brewing city with well over a century and a half of experience making beer for the masses. Home to Anheuser Busch and Budweiser, the craft beer boom hasn’t skipped STL either...you've probably heard of Schlafly, as well. They're here. Also, Side Project Brewing, which I saw at SAVOR, is right here in St. Louis (and worth a visit! Stay tuned!) And many more! Too many to try in a few days. 

First up on my tour: Urban Chestnut. Everyone I spoke to raved about it. They’ve got two locations in St. Louis and one in Germany; the head brewer Florian is German so it’s natural that German styles feature here (after all, it was German immigrants who brought beer as we know it to North America!) So naturally, I expect a lot of German styles done correctly. 

Arriving via Uber, I pull up to what I can only describe as a warehouse complex. The place is massive, by the way. Much of the brewing apparatus are visible, out in the open, and available for tours. The industrial interior is well-attended, with long German-style tables forming the seating area. The concrete bar is maybe the longest I’ve ever seen. Truly "yuge." 

As per usual, when I’m in a new place, it’s time to try a sampler, which they don't offer per se but I cobbled together on my own:

• (L) - "Konomi" - Japanese lager, 20 IBUs, 5.40% ABV. Nice color, thin soap bubble head with a gentle aroma. It's got a touch of that sake dryness, a bit yeasty, with a good, long, lingering aftertaste. Here I'm getting wild wheat stalk flavors and a little bit more yeast. I like the weight of the beer too, it's light-to-medium and I think balances well the flavors, textures, and delivery. 
• (R) - "Balkan" - Helles Lager, 25 IBUs, 4.80% ABV. Nice hay color accompanied by a fine white cap of foam. Mild aroma, as to be expected, and presents an off-dry texture and notable soft grain flavor. Very tasty and refreshing, and a collab between UC and Balkan Treat Box restaurant in Webster Grove, MO. 

• (L) - "Fantasyland" - West Coast IPA, 6.00% ABV, 60 IBUs. One of the only IPAs on the menu, so I was curious how they approached the style. It's not as grassy as I was expecting, instead presenting tropical flavors like cantaloupe and mango. 60 IBUs is getting up there in bitterness, but I think the fruit balances that out a bit. Pretty solid and good for those who might not like German styles. 
• (R) - "Mercator" - Flemish red, 6.30% ABV, 15 IBUs Flemish sour ale...definitely has the nose! It's got the usual Flemish funk...very tart, no sweetness, tangy and acidic, but this one has more of a cherry angle to it, kinda like Ommegang's "Three Philosophers." It's also lighter than many Flanders ales so that's a plus. If I wasn't going to Side Project Brewing later in the day, I'd have had a second. 
•  (B) - "Dorfbier" - Munich-style Dunkel, 5.20% ABV, 20 IBUs. Definitely one of my favorites of the night...chewy, malty, rounded, and a touch sweet. Nice showing of malts, a bit of smoke, and very true to the style. I would expect no less from Florian, the brewer, to get this right. I actually went home with a 4pk, and had it with leftover barbeque a few nights later. Perfect for meat dishes, stews, or just relaxing on the deck in the fall!

WSET - II news! I passed!

 A quick note here - got my results back from my recent Wine & Spirits Education Trust level II exam in spirits, and I passed with a 98% - that's "with distinction." This industry certification is another feather in my cap and will increase my standing within the industry. 

Next stop - Sommelier level 1 in the spring!

Wine Makes the World Go 'Round - a Trip to Slate Wine Bar

Nestled in Glover Park, just west of the National Observatory, is a pair of restaurants that are somewhat hidden away; in fact, I passed right by twice before finally stepping inside. Slate, a wine bar, and Xiquet, a high-end Spanish concept, share this building on Wisconsin Ave. Xiquet, the brainchild of Chef Danny Lledó, received a MICHELIN Star in the 2021 DC Guide. This year, both Slate Wine Bar and Xiquet were nominated for best wine program at the RAMMYs, the annual Washington restaurant industry awards.

Xiquet’s menu, inspired by Chef's hometown of Dénia in the Valencian region of Spain, features a tasting menu experience including paella, as well as innovative preparations of other traditional items from Valencian cuisine. The menu changes monthly, and is in fact adjusted daily depending on what's fresh. A meal at Xiquet offers 22 takes on modern Spanish cuisine, including ingredients like octopus, tomatoes, cheese, caviar, anchovies, and even Wagyu beef. The blues, yellows, and earth tones in the painting in was commissioned and inspired by Dénia. 

I'll try the food another day, as I'm here for the booze. 

Betsy, the head bartender, graciously whips up a cocktail for me - the "Ferdinand", a lovely mix of brandy washed in Wagyu fat, Lillet rose wine, and pink Port. The ingredients are built in a mixing glass, added with cracked ice, and stirred with a barspoon then strained through a julep strainer. Add a big ol' ice cube and topped with a dried orange peel.

I really like it - it's my first fat-washed cocktail, and I think that aspect provides a savory balance to the sweetness of the Lillet and the Port wine. It's not super complex, but it's definitely a curious libation that demands focus and attention. 

One observation I have about the bar, and the service, is that Slate is not as technical as other cocktail places. This isn't a bad thing - here I'm noticing high-end service and traditional mixology, with little use of complex gadgets or acrobatics. While they do make their own garnishes, purees, and such, they don't use gimmicks or anything - just good, classical mixology. They've got a commendable list of spirits, and a selection of Sherry and Madeira that's wider than most places I've been to, and high-end Spanish vermouths (and vermuts) like Yzaguirre, so these classic European ingredients mirror both the old-world charm of the drink menu and the skill of Betsy and crew.

These olives are awesome - made with a house-blend of spices and oil.

But how does a sommelier put together a wine program? I was able to spend a few minutes with Chef himself to discuss.

"We have an obligation to educate, and provide great things...not just show off how great our wines are, or how great they work with food," Chef told me, "and we [like having] guests understand what they're drinking." To help accomplish this, Slate and Xiquet offers sommelier nights, introductory wine pairings with food, and themed dinners to help guests connect these dots. Chef also notes that it's about challenging pre-conceived notions...let's say a guest says they don't like Chardonnay. It could be because they had a bad experience once and decided to judge all examples of Chardonnay on that one particular glass. 

Chef actually travels around the world, talking to producers and distributors to bring the best wines to DC to help realize his creative vision. And there are some *great* wines on this list, for sure. It's separated out - the everyday and the rare, including introductory pairings and flights for guests to try new things. As much as I'd like to dive into the rare, I'm sticking with a by-the-glass menu. 

I spot "Arbui", a 2018 Monastrell from Bodegas Alejandro. I love Monastrell - you may see it by its French name, Mourvedre, and often appears in red blends but not as commonly on its own. This Monastrell is, as luck would have it, from Chef's home province of Valencia. As soon as I order, Chef Lledó turns to me and goes, "it's awesome." He should know, he picked it out. 

And he was right. Off-dry, well-structured, and deliciously savory, I'm picking up notes of earth, leather, and dry wood. There's a touch of sea salt at the end which is awesome, and as much as I wished I could try with the Wagyu beef burger, it went just fine with the olives. Betsy says wines like these "change with each sip" and I would agree - as oxygen mixes with the wine, new flavors come out and the glass of wine can change slightly. It's a fun journey and this wine shows that off pretty well. 

I caught sight of Chef ordering a bottle of bubbly, and being a fan of sparkling wine, I lustfully watched as he served a bottle of Bollinger 2007 (!!!!) to the guests adjacent. Wow! That's a pricey bottle for sure. Betsy, sensing that I was jonesing for a glass of sparkles, kindly arranged for me a glass of Dom Perignon 2012 brut...not at all a consolation prize, but in fact a wonderful glass of sublime, cool, low-dosage bubbly.  It's quite soft with low tang and low acidity, and has nice crispness and balance. Great for sipping and a perfect conclusion to an evening of exceptional food, drink, and service. 

Slate is a place I'll definitely recommend and return, especially when I'm seeking an intimate atmosphere, a high-end & refined wine list, and a level of service to match. 

Colombia en DC: A Visit to Elcielo in Union Market

While my blog tends to focus on beverages, every so often I like to talk about a restaurant experience as a whole. Recently I had the chance to visit Elcielo, a new South American concept restaurant by Juan Manuel Barrientos, and I'd like to share my observations. Juanma, as he is known, is an accomplished chef, business leader, and entrepreneur who's managed and opened almost a dozen restaurants across the world. Elcielo is actually part of a small chain, with two locations in Colombia, one in Miami and the newest in Washington. Elcielo earned one MICHELIN star in 2021, and in this year's rankings, retained that star. 

Union Market, with humble beginnings, seems to be the newest place for high-end concepts, and so it's no surprise Juanma chose to open his latest iteration of Elcielo here. Warehouse districts, as Union Market is/was, provide wide open spaces for restauranteurs to truly craft to their liking — Elcielo is open and airy, with lots of natural light, blonde wood furniture, smooth lines, and gold accents. 

Above the building there are condos, and I'd need an extra zero at the end of my paycheck to consider living there. 

There are a series of small tables sprinkled throughout the dining room, however I choose to sit at the bar, front and center, to watch the magic. 

To my left, a couple around my age enjoying a romantic evening. To my right, two spirits professionals representing several families of Scotch whisky brands, chatting about fancy Ardbeg offerings. Orlando and Andres are the experts behind the bar, and Pedro is managing the house. Everyone is gracious, welcoming, and attentive.

The cocktail program is heavily influenced by Central and South American spirits, flavors, and textures: agave spirits like mezcal share a menu with herbal flavors and fruits like soursop and yuzu, alongside more familiar "tropical" flavors like coconut, tangerine, papaya, and passion fruit. Distilled spirits by the ounce are available on the menu, and scanning the bar, there's a well-curated stock which I'm sure I could try neat if I so desired. 

But this isn't the place to "do shots" - it's a place to appreciate some of the most refined mixology DC has to offer. 

Elcielo's centerpiece is the Experience menu, which is a gastronomic adventure that courses through countries, cultures, land and sea — 22 small courses in all. This menu weaves through crab empanadas, blood sausage, cocktails, squash, duck, halibut, lamb, salad, yuca, apples, rockfish, and much more. At $228, with an additional $150 wine pairing menu, this is the crown jewel of Elcielo's menu and even includes sensory experiences like, believe it or not, washing one's hands in chocolate, or eating fresh-baked bread served on a wire bonsai tree. 

If that is a bridge too far, a few of these offerings can be ordered from the bar experience: a pared-down program which costs $120 per person and includes four handcrafted cocktails (or mocktails if one prefers NA versions) a pairing with some snacks and small bites, and a dessert. 

I opted to order just one dish off the bar menu to start, and was promptly delivered this dish of yuca gnocchi:

The yuca gnocchi are served with mushrooms, honey and cilantro, and topped with foamed Appalachian cheese and queso fresco. Honestly, this is one of the best pasta dishes I have had. Honey is the dominant texture here, with the foamed cheese and natural oils delivering a mouth-coating array of flavors. I would have licked the plate if Pedro wouldn't disapprove. 

The wine list is quite respectable, with some rather high-end offerings and prices to match, and as much as I'd like a glass or three of wine, I'm sticking to cocktails.

You may recall, in the picture of the bar above, Orlando is expressing something into these little cups. This is a soursop sorbet, over which is floated Champagne, and accompanies this mistela, a little vial filled with aguardiente and passionfruit, meant to be taken on its own. It's served in a wooden bowl on a bed of coffee beans and rosemary, and accompanies my gnocchi.

I like the dichotomy here: the soursop puree is light and airy, with a hint to vegetal flavors, whereas the mistela is assertive, almost like a Colombian digestif. I would much prefer this to Underberg. The puree is almost like a dessert, and actually perfect for me as I don't eat sweets.

As this is digesting and I'm enjoying the interplay of flavors, now it's time to test the skills of Andres and Orlando, and so I order a cocktail off the menu: the "Chimberito."

The Chimberito is a cocktail made with two sugarcane spirits: aguardiente and cachaça. Although the term has been used to refer to a general class of sugarcane spirits, modern drinkers will be familiar with this beverage as something truly Colombian. DC drinkers, in particular, would be familiar with Dan Zeigler's "Chacho", a jalapeno aguardiente made locally and quite delicious.

Cachaça is likely less familiar. It's produced in Brazil, and in fact is one of the most popular alcoholic beverages there. Water-white and pungent, it's frequently used in tropical drinks and the most famous Brazilian cocktail, the Caiprinha. It's catching on here in the US and is available in unaged (prata) and aged (ouro).

So these two spirits form the base for the Chimberito, which is then built by the addition of yuzu, soursop (guanábana), and thyme, garnished with a dried lime and served over cracked ice. It's quite sublime - a little grassy, a product no doubt of the cachaça, with a dash of funk and banana creaminess that I suspect is from the soursop. The cracked ice prevents gulping, which you wouldn't want to do anyways — this is to be savored.

For my final cocktail, I ask Orlando to make me something off-the-menu. Dealer's choice, I call it. I challenge bartenders to get creative, make something fun and off the wall. This gives them a canvas to test out a new recipe, maybe. 

Orlando challenges me. What kind of spirit? What textures? What ingredients do I like? He's asking me the questions he needs to. I choose mezcal, and he goes from there.

Here's what we settled on:

• Fidencio mezcal (base spirit of the cocktail)
• Dolin blanc vermouth
• Ancho Reyes poblano liqueur
• Cappelletti Elisir Novasalus (red vermouth)
• Chile syrup
• Lemongrass
• Saline solution

I don't know why I said "we." I had no part in the creation of this masterpiece other than the choice of mezcal.

The cocktail is built then strained into a rocks glass, but not before the ice cube is briefly heated with a culinary torch. Then, a heated press is applied to the top of the ice, melting it just slightly to deboss 'elcielo' onto the top. Then, cherry juice is dripped into the letters to provide contrast. The whole cocktail is then smoked with cherry wood under a glass bulb.

The aroma is of smoke and wood, sort of like the inside of an antique dresser. Smoking cocktails is a big thing these days, and mostly serves to enhance the presentation — a common concern here. The cocktail itself, for having so many ingredients, is remarkably well-built: the root flavors of the Novasalus pairs nicely with the sweet spice of the Ancho Reyes, and the mezcal provides a salty and powerful finish. A perfect sipper as I compile my notes about the visit. 

For fun, I was given a small plate of jam to try, along with a super-secret salt and herb blend. Even something as straightforward as a plate of salt is complex, crafted, and serves a sensory purpose. It's very neat to see the craft displayed here and how great energy is expended in refining very minute parts of the menu. 

Elcielo is part of DC's newest generation of finest-dining, and I heartily recommend it. No, it's not an every day spot, but a great place for a romantic dinner or special occasion. The craft, the food, drinks, and service are well worth the price, and their MICHELIN star is well-deserved. 

SAVOR 2022, Part Deux - All The Other Great Beers of the Night!

 STANDOUTS AND CURIOSITIES

Here I'll talk about some of the night's standout beers as well as some curious, funky, weird beers that deserve a wider audience. I do commend all brewers in attendance for showing up, though, and this does not represent all of what SAVOR had to offer. 

Side Project Brewing, Maplewood, MO - "Oude Fermier"

I'm a sucker for Flemish-style ales so immediately I had to visit Side Project. Based just south of St. Louis, Missouri, Side Project has a ton of fruit beers, bieres de garde, and Flemish ales. They brought a barleywine and the "Oude Fermier", a 7.00% ABV farmhouse ale aged in Chardonnay barrels for a total of 12 months, mixing with wild Missouri yeast and bacteria before bottling. Once bottled, it was conditioned for another 6 months before release. 

Golden and hazy in the glass, I'm getting lots of delicious apple cider vinegar notes - flavor is super tangy, pungent, and dry. I love it. Some beers of this style are excessively fruity; this one has little fruit at at all and presents a strong yeasty flavor with the familiar farmhouse funkiness. a little winey, maybe, good acidity. A complex saison and fans of traditional Flemish ales will find this most pleasing. 

Odd Breed Wild Ales, Pompano Beach, FL - "Tilling Time"

Odd Breed is new this year, and being a huge fan of wild ales, I had to visit. All of their beers are fermented with a mixed culture of wild yeast and bacteria, and then aged in oak barrels. This is similar to the lambics and farmhouse-style ales of Belgium, which is a style that American producers are not attempting in any large numbers due to the time, effort, and craft such styles require. 

"Tilling Time" is a Lambic-inspired wild ale, which spent 16 months in French oak puncheons (a size of oaken barrel containing 104 gallons, or just less volume than a "butt" but more than a "hogshead." No I did not make that up.) After this, "Tilling Time" spends almost half a year in freshly-emptied Ardbeg 10-year Scotch barrels. 

And damn, can you taste that Islay character! The beer presents heavy notes of peat and earth, with some stone fruit and cantaloupe making a tiny appearance at the end. Acidity is more or less middle-of-the road, but the real star here is that peat character. Very good job on this one!

(photo credit: Kyle L. on Untappd as my photos did not come out)

Cheluna Brewing Co., Aurora, CO - "Chupa Guava"

You may recall Cheluna from my 2019 coverage...Javi and Jennifer Perez were back with their chelas sabrosas, bright colors, and elaborate labels and coasters. They're back, thankfully, and Cheluna's quality of beer, commitment to community, and vibrant colors all make this one of my favorite breweries to see. I follow them on Facebook, despite living thousands of miles away, and they have some really neat, community-driven events...lotería, dancing classes, terrarium building...all sorts of things I'd love to try. So obviously I'm super happy they're back.

Today they're pouring "Chupa Guava", a 5.50% ABV blonde ale made with guava. The name here is a play on words, referencing Mexico's mythical chupacabra. Crisp and refreshing, and the guava adds a nice tropical dash of sweetness and fruit. This is the kind of beer you can enjoy for hours, and the texture is just perfect - the guava "persists", as Javi says, and presents throughout the beer in both aroma and taste. 

My only regret is that I'm not closer to Cheluna...maybe someday soon I'll make it out to Colorado! Thanks Jennifer and Javi, as always, for everything!

Javi and I!

The Bruery, Plascentia, CA - "Portified Black Tuesday"

The Bruery is back again, bringing another rare offering from their cellar. This is the "Portified Black Tuesday", a 17.90% ABV Port barrel-aged imperial stout made with syrah must. They aged it for multiple years, blending and refining, before bottling in 2021. 

Woof, I mean, ~18% is pretty wild and I would expect nothing less. The Bruery has always brought super-heavy beers to SAVOR. 

It's served somewhat warm, which I think is a good call. Sweet and heavy, and sweeter than I typically go for. But just like a glass of port, it's a fine dram - boozy, a bit oaky, and very warming. There's no carbonation to speak of, just viscous, oily liquid, and meant to be sipped as a digestif. The food pairing here is sticky toffee pudding, which works perfectly - and in fact, I had seconds.

 These 500mL bottles go for $55 a pop, if you can find them, so definitely a rare beer.  

Fremont Brewing Co., Seattle, WA- "Ye Olde Centaur"

Fremont, my old Seattle standby. I've been to their taproom a few times and have reviewed their beers many times over the years. A solid Seattle choice, led by Sara Nelson (now on the Seattle City Council!) and husband Matt Linthicum, head brewer. Matt was here this time.

This is their "Ye Olde Centaur", a 10.00% ABV barrel-aged English-style barleywine made in memory of Matt Bonney, a bigtime Seattle beer guy who I actually met a few times at Bottlewerks. He was a lover of Scotch, cigars, beer, and whiskey, so this beer is made in his memory and honor using some of those ingredients. 

It's full of molasses, brown sugar, toffee and nougat with a hefty dose of oak, vanilla, and wood. A little "chewy", as I like to say, requiring a few moments of swishing in the mouth to fully appreciate the flavors. There's a touch of raisins there, too. 

This is the kind of beer to pour into a snifter on a fall day and watch the sun set over Mount Rainier, sipping and savoring the complex spice character that the 10yr American (Buffalo Trace) and Scottish whiskey barrels impart. Regrettably, Matt is not here to try it, but at least we can raise a glass in his memory.

Dogfish Head Brewing Co., Milton, DE - "Fermentation Engastration"

Dogfish Head is the second largest "craft" brewery in the US and responsible for hundreds of beers over the years, and founder Sam Calagione is considered one of the titans of brewing in the US. They're here with a few offerings, most interestingly the "Fermentation Engastration", a 10.00% ABV experimental ale brewed in collaboration with Gastro Obscura.

They call this the "Turducken" of beer, and I guess that makes sense: the first brewed rose sake, then into that added honey to make mead, then added apple cider from Angry Orchard to ferment that into cider, then added Muscat grape must and topped off with Belgian-style saison. And voila, it's...beer? 

Kind of an odd (tur)duck(en), if you ask me. There's an interesting nose on this one for sure, pretty muddled - full bodied, sort of like a light trippel, some stone fruit, but an odd effervescence...floral on the back end for sure, which could be the sake. 

Keenan says outstanding! I like it but would probably want to enjoy it on its own at some point, not while having other beers. 

Hi-Wire Brewing Co., Asheville, NC - "Japanese-Style Dry Rice Lager"

Hi-Wire's originally facility is next to a sake brewery, so they used koji (rice with mold spores) to make this lager. It's clean, crisp, and bone-dry, a nice everyday drinker. It's super clear, too! Sort of the lager version of Stillwater Artisanal's "Sake-style Saison." Might be a wonderful everyday drinker and highly worth trying, especially for people that like clean, almost-flavorless beer. That's not at all to say it's bad, in fact, achieving this kind of clarity is a rare feat. I'd also pair this with spicy food. 

Here's me having a chat with the brewer!

Site 1 Brewing Co., Omaha, NE - "Cerna Dira"

Site 1 came to SAVOR last time, I believe and most of their beers are retro space-themed. Here, they're serving up the "Cerna Dira", a 4.60% ABV dark lager. 

"Cerna Dira" is Czech for "black hole", and is Site 1's alternative to their regular Czech lager. I do like the dark lager style, and this one does not disappoint...it's off-dry, less malty than expected, a little roasty, but soft and easy-drinking. It's a dark lager, as opposed to a lagered stout. Does that make sense? Served with lamb and polenta, I love the combination of savory, malty, and herbs. 

Land-Grant Brewing Co, Columbus, OH -  "Macha Mochi Sour" 

Land-Grant out of Columbus was here, serving up one of the more unique beers of the night - "Macha Mochi Sour", a 4.50% ABV American sour made with vanilla, mochi powder, milk, and rice flour. 

Very interesting! A touch creamy, herbal, and soft, it's far less bitter than most macha I've had. Very peculiar, in a good way, and hard to describe. It's almost like a matcha vanilla milkshake mixed with a beer. My vote for most off-the-wall beer of the night, and something I'd like to try again in a more focused environment. Fans of sours should be cautioned that this isn't super sour.

Final Thoughts

SAVOR was pretty solid. Although the feel has changed over the last few years, I still think it's a worthwhile event. Breweries from all over the US come to this festival, and since many of those breweries do not distribute nationwide, attendees get a chance to try beers they would never be able to otherwise. 

I do have to temper my remarks with a few suggestions for improvement - I felt the layout was far too crowded and the aisles too narrow to really interact with brewers. There was a lot of line-cutting and the staff tasked with delivering food often, quite forcefully, pushed past attendees and hefted hot steaming plates far too close to guests. While some of that is unavoidable, I felt if the event was smaller (fewer brewers, larger space) that might mitigate that. A fun part of this event is spending time with brewers and learning about their products (and, as media, conducting interviews!) and small spaces don't make that super easy. 

But in any event, I had fun, Keenan had fun, and I am very thankful to be asked back. I hope that next year, some logistical changes are made, and I look forward to another successful event in 2023. 

(photo credit: the Brewer's Association)