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Saturday, October 31, 2015

Chateau Ste. Michelle - 2013 Viognier (Washington)

Today's wine comes to us (once again) from Woodinville, WA-based Chateau Ste Michelle winery. It's another special, winery-only selection that I picked up in their tasting room after my sommelier-led private tasting back in August. It's their 2013 Viognier, grown in the Columbia Valley, with a rather interesting backstory.


The grapes are sourced from the Columbia Valley, the largest winemaking region in Washington state. It covers an area of 11 million acres, mostly in southern and central Washington State, with some variety of climate. In 1984 the Columbia Valley was also designated as an AVA, or American Viticultural Area, which means it's been recognized as an official wine-producing region.

The Columbia Valley

Regarding the wine itself - Vigonier is a varietal of white wine grape, grown all across the world. It compares with Chardonnay in terms of its texture and ability to present lush flavors, but contrasts with Chardonnay in some of the flavors present and the overall mineraly-ness of the wine. Viognier is popular in France, where it is presumed to have originated. In Jancis Robinson's The Oxford Companion to Wine, Third Edition, she notes that DNA profiling done at UC Davis in 2004 proved Viognier to be a genetic relative of the Niebbolo grape.

This particular wine is aged in neutral oak barrels, and then fermented in stainless steel tubs. For some context, let's briefly talk oak. Wine guru and author Bill St. John had a really good article last year about the role of oak in wine. Many wines are aged and stored in oak barrels, hearkening back to the days when barrels were the choice way to store large amount of liquids (and transport them safely). When wine (and beer! and whiskey!) are stored in barrels made of wood, and aged, the contact with the wood over time can soften the wine, as well as impart certain flavors and textures to what's inside. This could be vanilla flavors, or smoky flavors if the barrels are charred. As wine ages in a barrel, the wine saps the flavors from the wood. Over a period of years, the barrel loses all ability to impart flavor. Barrels that have lost that ability are called "neutral oak" barrels, and thus any wine stored in one (like today's) will gain the benefits of oak aging, but without any added flavors. The steel tubs of course do not impart any flavor, so I'm expecting the wine to be clean and delicate.

The wine poured a light golden color. I liked the burst of fruit aroma from bottle.


As it opened up, there was a clear and light aroma, those fruit aromas dying out. As you can see from the above photo, I had the wine chilled, but let it sit to open up. When I did try it, I was very impressed. The main flavors here are strong, bright orange fruits, but not in the way you might expect. The flavors aren't like juice - they form a solid baseline of citrus flavors, followed up by a nice undercurrent of fruits and sugar that is well polished. It has a good body but is not overly tannic - wine tasters call this flavor "round." I was particularly impressed with the lack of bite, as well - those citrus flavors came through nicely without any sharp kick. The finish was clean, refreshing and crisp, leaving very delicious flavors on the palette after swallowing.

I'm very happy with this wine. I'm not a fan of overly-oaked whites, and the caustic bite that many of them have really turn me off. But fortunately, today's wine is none of those things. It's a lovely, round, smooth-tasting white wine with a refreshing texture to it. I think I have found my favorite white wine! If I could afford a case of this shipped to me every few months, I'd do it.


Friday, October 23, 2015

Matt Brewing Company - "Saranac Pumpkin" ale

I've seen this beer many times in the store, sitting there among the other pumpkin offerings, but for some reason never had a chance to try it. After seeing it at Harris Teeter recently, for the very low price of $5.99, I figured I should buy it. It's "Saranac Pumpkin Ale," a 5.4% ABV pumpkin ale from Matt Brewing Co. based out of Utica, NY. Online, it also credits Saranac Brewing Co. as being involved in the production, but the bottle says Matt Brewing Co.

This led to a bit of investigation. It turns out Matt Brewing Co. is officially called F.X. Matt Brewing Co., a family-owned brewery in Utica founded in 1888. Matt Brewing Co. brews a lot of beer on contract; according to an online article I read, it brews beer for Costco under the Kirkland label as well as under other lines, such as the more popular Saranac line. As far as I can tell, they don't release any beers under the Matt Brewing Co. label itself.

Today's beer comes in a 32 oz jug, which is half the capacity of my growler, Rex. As you can see, it has a metal screwcap, which is not common in beers. It's neat, however, the downside to that is the suuuper-sharp metal ring that makes handling the jug a pain. I do also like the little finger grip as well, it gives the bottle a more rustic, Ron Swanson-esque feel.


The beer pours lighter than expected, sort of a deep honey color, with some fizzy white foam that dies down quickly.


The aroma in the glass is pleasing, like pumpkin pie. Lots of allspice, nutmeg, and clove aromas in there, not too sweet or deep - more like a pumpkin donut than mulled cider.


It's actually lighter than expected, taste-wise. It's malty and dank, the pumpkin flavors not as strong as the aroma might suggest. It's a little watery, but still has some of the spices that translate over into a tasty lighter beer. The finish and aftertaste are muted and clean, with a little bit of spice. It's a good ale, tasty and cheap, but in the end it didn't knock it out of the park.

Truth is, I like it, and the price point is perfect for this quality and volume. I, for one, enjoy pumpkin beers - some traditionalists seem to think they're heretical to beer, but I find value in the various seasonal approaches and flavors. Due to the format, volume and price, this would be a great contribution to a fall party or just to have on hand at all times.


Tuesday, October 20, 2015

Beer Flash: Odin Brewing Company's "Odin's Gift" amber ale

Here's another one from the archives - back in August I cracked open a bottle of Odin Brewing Co.'s "Odin's Gift", a 5.4% ABV year-round amber ale. I grabbed it at the Roosevelt Way NE Safeway in Seattle, WA. Seattle supermarkets have a pretty good selection of microbrews, so it's easy to score some tasty beers while stocking up on paper towels, teriyaki landjaegers, and Tillamook.


It pours a pleasing deep red color. It has some off-white foam when poured, which settles quickly. It's mellow and tasty, pleasingly smooth and muted. I was surprised at the lightness of the beer - it drinks well above its weight, and a welcome change from the high-grav, high-alcohol syrupy flavors. I can't really taste any of the juniper in there, unlike Rogue's Juniper Ale, which was heavily juniper'd. But as you all may know, the deep red coloring in the glass is my favorite, and I'd definitely get this again to have on hand. It's a great summer / fall beer. 




Friday, October 16, 2015

La Fiarre du Pape - 2011 Chateauneuf-du-Pape (France)

Today's review is of a fine French gem, the famous 2011 La Fiarre du Pape Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Chateauneuf-du-Pape is a commune in southeastern France, near the town of Avignon in the Provence-Alpes-Cote d'Azur region. It gets its name from both an early Latin name for the region, and also from Pope John XXII, who resided in the area in the early 1300s, and gave the area (already called Chateauneuf, essentially "new castle", as pictured below) the moniker "du-Pape," or "of the Pope."

This region, like many in France, have long made wine. Procurement receipts show vine purchases and grape transfers dating back to the Middle Ages. So, then, "Chateauneuf-du-Pape" is the name not just of the region, but also an AOC for the region, and ALSO the proper name itself for the wine. Not to confuse you or anything.

Avignon, le palais, avec le pont

This wine was rather pricey - around $26 per bottle. But owing to the quality wines made in Provence-Alpes-Cote D'Azur, this label isn't by any means the most expensive example - those can run from $60 to hundreds and hundreds of dollars - so we'll have to settle with a more affordable example of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Behold the La Fiarre du Pape:


It pours a pleasant ruby color, lighter than I expected. Not too much aroma in the glass, but let it sit for roughly 20 minutes and volatized now and again to try to let those flavors open up.


What I like about this is the texture. Strong and clean with some moderate alcohol flavor and very noticeable dark berry flavors. Unlike some other vintages with strong berry notes, this one isn't jammy, just weighted more on the fig / cherryesque notes and some dark fruit skin tastes. I like the balance of this wine - very smooth, easy to drink with no particular overwhelming tastes. These kinds of well-balanced, delicious wines are just what I am looking for in a dinner red.


It's got a very drawn-out, lightly sour finish, which is not at all objectionable. Smooth and velvety on the palette afterward with a tinge of alcohol esters. It paired well with dinner - a seasoned and broiled steak matched with cinnamon tarragon rice and some mixed leafy greens. I'd definitely get it again - I find it's a well-balanced dinner wine that complements subtle flavors nicely.



Thursday, October 15, 2015

Wine Flash: Chateau Ste Michelle - 2012 "Midsummer White" white blend [U.S.A.]

A few nights ago - before it got cold here - I opened a bottle of Chateau Ste Michelle's "Midsummer White," a special white blend I bought at the Woodinville winery and had it shipped to me in DC (along with a Vigonier and a red blend that I will review later this year.) This wine is a special winery-only blend they release in the summer - it's a blend of Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Gewurztraminer, and Muscat Canelli grapes.

It's a little astringent, some mineral notes in there with predominant flavors of peach, green apple and green grape. Fortunately, it's not too sweet, not "lush" like the late harvest Riesling, or even like a regular Vinifera Riesling. It's crisp, a little dry and tart on the finish, but very refreshing and clean. Definitely a good buy, is great for that all-purpose summer white you may be looking for. Would pair well with some French cheese (I'm thinking Roquefort, my favorite) and some Medjool dates.


Monday, October 12, 2015

Big Sky Brewing Co. - "Moose Drool" brown ale

Today's beer comes to us from Big Sky country - that's right, Montana. My colleague Tony, a native Montanan, has procured me a sixer of "Moose Drool", a 5.2% ABV brown ale from Missoula-based Big Sky Brewing Co. I've never reviewed a Montana beer on this blog, and in the spirit of always looking for new potent potable experiences from across our blue marble, I was happy to try. About the brewery - Big Sky Brewing Co. first opened in 1995 and is the largest macrobrewery in Montana, based in Missoula:

Missoula, Montana, home of the Grizzlies

The brewery produces upwards of 33,000 barrels per year (or almost 8.5 million pints a year!) and it generally produces features kinds of beer: "Moose Drool," the "Scape Goat" pale ale, the "Big Sky" IPA, the "Powder Hound" winter ale, the "Trout Slayer" ale, and the "Summer Honey" seasonal with two special rotating ales. Of course, no moose (mooses? meese?) were harmed in the making of this beer. Let's dive in.

Pours swiftly into my Molly Pitcher pint glass, pours sort of a "clear brown" like a root beer. Has a thin white head, which dies down very quickly.


It's very clear in the glass as well, an interesting reddish-brown color that's translucent. No serious carbonation noted. The aroma is mild and light.


The taste is rather light as well, much like the aroma, however that's not necessarily a bad thing. I can't taste any alcohol notes, mostly a watery and slightly fizzy brown ale taste with lots of malts. It's got a tiny bit of hops, not a lot at all, but enough to stop it from getting too dank and sweet. The texture is creamy and light, and overall the beer has no particular strengths or weaknesses.

This is a great beer to have in your cooler for any casual occasion. While it's not as complicated or fancy as other beers I've reviewed, it's a tasty light choice for any session-type outing. It's light enough where you can drink it without serious distraction, so slap a Jeff Ament playist on iTunes, crack a can of Moose Drool, and watch the sun set over Granite Peak!


Sunday, October 4, 2015

Founders Brewing Co. - "Kentucky Breakfast Stout"

As you may recall, last year at Shirlington I came across Founders Brewing Co's "Breakfast Stout". It's rated a pure 100/100 on BeerAdvocate (the highest possible rating) and is popular in the DC market. I'd also grabbed a growler full at D'Vines at some point and enjoyed it. The beer was good, nothing to really blow your socks off in my opinion, but good and very drinkable nonetheless.

Apparently, Founders also releases a once-yearly "Kentucky" version, and 11.2% ABV stout aged in bourbon barrels. My man Jesse at Irving Wines and Spirits in Mt. Pleasant made sure I got two bottles when they came in. They're $6.99 a piece. They are highly sought-after - Jesse was only able to sell 2 bottles per customer. I've never seen them retail - only an "under the counter" kind of thing.


OK, let's see what the fuss is about. It pours black, with a dark khaki head that actually lightens up significantly over a minute or so. Lots of tan-colored foam clings to the glass. It's so dark, it can't be candled.


Has some of the usual aromas - notes of chocolate and coffee. This one also smells like wood.

In tasting it, I can see the attraction. There's an initial burst of boozy flavor, followed by some chocolate in the middle, and a nice warming sensation on the way down with faint bourbon and chocolate notes on the aftertaste. Super drinkable and amazingly smooth. No wonder it's also rated a 100 on BeerAdvocate!

I was surprised, honestly, at how good this is. I was expecting a sweet, whiskey taste, strong and hard and boozy, reminiscent of all the barrel-aged beers out there, but ended up getting a much smoother experience. It's almost like chocolate milk in its consistency, yet super strong and powerful. Well worth the $6.99. I wonder how long this would age. It didn't last that long in my house - so grab one of you see it!