Today's wine has come to me all the way from California, shipped special as part of my membership in the Sonoma Wine Club. During my trip to California in August 2018, one afternoon we drove from Inverness to Sebastapol and had a delicious three-course meal at La Bodega, located at 2295 Gravenstein Highway, South in Sebastapol, CA. Aside from three wonderful courses prepared by Ric the chef - I had the minestrone 'au pistou', veal in wine mushroom cream (life changing) and finished with some Alfajadores - Peruvian wedding cookies with dulce de leche.
But that wasn't the true highlight of the visit - it was a professional wine tasting / palate calibration by Meekk Shelef, general manager of this little slice of heaven. Unlike some wine tastings, which focus on larger pours of a handful of wines, this was a marathon. Meekk served over 20 wines, about 1oz each, and after each dram, we discussed what I liked, what I didn't, and she took notes. I joined the wine club and, for each quarterly shipment, Meekk uses the notes she took during our tasting to specially choose the wines I receive. Each shipment is curated to my particular palate.
So here's one from the last shipment - it's a red blend from Mora Estate, a Windsor, CA-based winery founded by Fabiano Ramaci in 2009. Mora Estate is the only California winery dedicated to making-Amarone style wine.
This wine is a blend of Corvina Veronese, Rondinella, Molinara, Negrara and Cabernet Franc - so grapes that resemble a traditional grape bill of Amarone della Valpolicella. According to the label - "our Valpo is a combination of passito (semi-dried) and ripasso (re-ferment) method that resembles a baby Amarone style wine." You'll recall I reviewed a gargantuan bottle of Amarone della Valpolicella back in October, so I am familiar with the style somewhat. But, of course, any wine made in a particular "style" - especially if it's made in the New World to replicate an Old World style - is going to be interesting. The name of the wine, "Valpo", is a direct reference to Valipolicella.
Pours a blood red color in the glass; projects quite the aroma...chocolate, dark berries, and a touch of alcohol esters.
Like a true Amarone, this wine delivers a butter-smooth texture and somewhat-sweet flavors of candied dates, figs, and dark grapes. There's a dose syrupy sweetness, like Chambord liqueur almost, paired with a soft oak that's present but not front-and-center. I didn't detect any sherried notes, as I did with the Cesari. The Mora variant seems savorier than its Italian counterpart, which is nice, and the finish is quite long and really coats the mouth. I was tasting this wine long after swallowing.
Wow, OK, we have a winner here. I loved this - the texture was perfect and the savoriness is definitely up my alley. It's not that I don't like fruit-forward wines, but there's something about a full, savory, well-balanced red that really hits the spot. At $54.99, this was a one of the more expensive bottles I've ever had, but well worth it and something I'll get again. Authentic Amarones are at similar price point, so this isn't overpriced. If you're looking to pair this with food, try something heavy - a steak or some lamb and barley stew.
And if you ever find yourself in Sonoma, definitely pay La Bodega a visit - it's absolutely worth it and is the best mail-order wine subscription you can get. You'll be supporting a small business, too.
"Sip and Puff" is the personal blog of food & beverage writer James Liska. That's me! Since 2012, I've written about wine, beer, spirits, food, and restaurants. I focus on fundamental information, tasting notes, and overall thoughts rather than scores, harsh criticism, or arbitrary ratings. This supplements my other work such as writing for District Fray Magazine, creating cocktails, and posting more "everyday" stuff through my Instagram, @baconesque. Enjoy!
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