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Friday, June 2, 2017

Brouwerij Strubbe - 2013 "Ichtegem's Grand Cru" Flemish red ale [Belgium]

I was at Brasserie Beck recently for dinner and saw this on the menu, and knew I had to have it. It's a 2013-vintage "Ichtegem's Grand Cru", a  6.50% ABV Flemish red ale aged in oak barrels made by Brouwerij Strubbe, a seventh-generation brewery in the West Flanders province of Belgium.

Brewmaster Marc Strubbe with his creations (and an old-timey mash tun behind him)

As discussed before, Belgian beer is Brasserie Beck's main focus (in beer) so it's no surprise they have something like this. Also known as a Flanders red ale or sometimes "Flanders Oud Bruin", Flemish reds are medium-bodied ales characterized by a fermentation process using such bacteria as Lactobacillus, which (depending on how the beer is brewed) gives these ales a more sour taste. The ales also typically have higher concentrations of acetic acid, which give vinegar its characteristic taste. Some Belgian reds are made with Brettanomyces, which gives off a funky "barnyard" taste, or maybe blended with fruit, and often aged in wood barrels. Now, those of you unfamiliar with sour beers may ask why I'd like to drink a beer that has a vinegar taste. Truth is, if done properly, these flavor notes are quite subtle and rather nice. 


OK, let's dive in. The beer pours a beautiful clear red color, with lots of little bubbles. In terms of aroma, there's a sour apple aroma not unlike a cup of fresh cider. There's a thin layer of white bubbles that doesn't stick to the glass.

First impressions are a strong astringent quality, coupled with oaked dark fruit. As the beer sits in the mouth, a raisiny and, well, "chewy" quality comes out - lots of flavor here. It definitely pays to swish this beer around in your mouth and see how the flavors change. The finish is quite soft with some slightly tart apple notes, and the acidity lingers for quite a long time after drinking. I'd compare (and contrast) this to the 2010 Kasteel Cuvee du Chateau I had a while back - similar aged apple cider flavors, but different texture. While the Kasteel was yeasty and thick, today's beer is thinner and fizzier. But generally, the flavor profile is similar.

Final thought: in my opinion, a great example of this style and one worth having for sure. I had this delicious beer accompanied by Beck's famous marrow bones, served with lemongrass bread and herbed croutons over a bed of sea salt.



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