Lost Generation Brewing Co - a fun new opening!

Recently I wrote a piece for District Fray Magazine about Lost Generation Brewing Co., DC's newest brewpub in Eckington. The piece can be found here:

https://districtfray.com/articles/lost-generation-brewing/

I went on Saturday, October 29th, for their grand opening and it was quite the success...despite having such a cavernous space, it was standing room only and absolutely packed. At times it was tough to reach the bar because of how busy it was (which is a good problem to have if you're a brewer!) so if this is any indication, the pub will have a fantastic run. The only suggestion I might give is to make a dedicated lane at the bar for walk-ups, to make it easier to order rather than having guests push past others to order. 

I tried a number of their beers, all of which were delicious, but I wanted to spotlight one that was funky and neat - their "Peach Cobbler a la Mode", a 5.00% ABV pastry sour. I'm a big fan - it was sweet but not excessively so, and the fresh peach flavors came through quite well and balanced the mild sour tang. Consistency-wise, my first pour (below) was quite thick and bubbly; the second was more "stable" so not sure what's going on there. If you're a fan of peach beers, this is definitely worth a try!

Mi Vida on 14th - Bebidas Deliciosas y Comida Fantastica!

DC's got no shortage of good restaurants, and I'm always down to check out new (or reimagined) spaces. Recently I had the chance to visit Mi Vida on 14th and T, NW - the old Match Box space is newly-bedecked in bright colors, intricate patterns, and truly eye-catching.

The inside is dark yet airy, and the industrial look matches well with blond wood and low-Kelvin lighting. It was nice outside so I sat on the patio along T Street. Outside, there's probably 20 tables, with chairs made of woven, bright-orange chunky paracord. Perfect for people-watching right across from Compass Rose!

To start I had "La Frozen", a thirst-quenching chilled concoction of Sauza blanco tequila, mango, ginger, passionfruit, fresh lime, and agave. It's very spirit-forward, so if you like boozy cocktails, this is for you. The ginger is a nice touch, too, and the mango and passionfruit is balanced nicely to give just the right mix of fruit. 

By the way, they have a *very* extensive agave tasting menu. Dozens of mezcals and tequilas are listed on the menu, including lesser-known offerings like sotol and raicilla. There are some pretty cashy labels on there, too, so now that Espita is gone this seems to be THE place in DC for high-end agave spirits. They've got flights, too, if you want to try a curated selection.

So what about the food? I had the chance to sit down with Joe Jo Jennings, guest relations manager for the KNEAD group, to talk a little bit about food philosophy. According to Joe Jo, the restaurant is focused around communal plates and sharing menus – large sample platters for families or groups. I didn’t get one (although I feel like I probably I ate enough for one!) and judging by what's on offer, they’re a good spread of the stuff on the menu. Here they call the family platter "Sabores," or "tastes" in Spanish.

“Sabores is a sample of who we are”, said Joe Jo, “This isn’t a Tex-Mex spot and there’s no sizzling fajita plates or yellow corn chips." That is true, and the menu reflects a more elevated experience. They sure do stuff you here - probably one of the more generous restaurants in terms of offerings. Here's a snapshot of what I had:

• Huevos Rellenos: tastly little eggs that are filled with XYZ. Great for a snack and very reasonably priced ($1.50 each, so perfect add-ons to a meal.) 
• Queso Fundido: an exercise is hot, gooey, cheesy gluttony - filled with chorizo, herbs, and cheese. It also is served on a small, square cast-iron which is cute.
• Bunido: Corn cakes. It’s a touch sweeter than the cornbread you might find at “Southern” places, rumbly and works kinda like a dessert. Not like corn pudding, though!
• Guacamole: pretty snappy, actually, with a kick of heat. Also very good, and some of the best guac I think I've had for that reason. Chips are also awesome. 
• Mole enchiladas: The mole is made here (dark, a bit smoky, and heavy on the chocolate) and very good. It has a regular spice amount, nothing too hot, but instead presents a deep and rich flavor. Richer than any mole I think I’ve had, and well worth it. Save some extra mole sauce to spoon over the tortillas.
• Churros: I'm not a fan of sweet desserts, but these are really good. They're accompanied by three suaces: berry, dulce de leche, and chocolate. Not as sweet as some churros I've had, which is good. Nice and crunchy too!

Service was impeccable – seated promptly, waters refilled without asking, and Not the place for quick bar bites or tapas, this is a big meal kind of place. If you’re lucky enough to get Keandre as a server, you are in for a great time. Come hungry!

The Side Project Cellar - Wild Fermentation in St. Louis!

You may remember Side Project Brewing from SAVOR this year...they brought an awesome barleywine as well as their "Oud Fermier", which I found fantastic. Well, they're only a few miles down the road from Urban Chestnut, the subject of my last post, so why not! Hopped in an Uber and made it to the brewery. 

Closed that day. 

Bummer! I did discover, however, that a few blocks away was Side Project's other location, The Side Project Cellar. Open for business that day, and pouring beers. Let's do it!

I met up with a former colleague, and we had a nice sampling of what they had to offer. The taproom, if you can call it that, is a cozy and chic tasting area with a generous spread of whiskeys and other distilled spirits. I'm not here for any draft beer, though - I'm here for the bottle library. 

The raison d'etre here are bottle-conditioned beers, many of which spend quite a while mellowing. These are usually northwestern European styles, and are often served in 750mL formats. Their list of bottles available was respectable but not overwhelming, and I settled on the "Saison du Fermier Blend #6", a 7.00% ABV saison aged for 10 months in Pinot Noir puncheons, then bottle conditioned for 3 months. Apparently they typically use Chardonnay casks to age their saisons, which makes sense given the complementary flavor profiles of Chardonnay and that style of beer. I believe they use spelt as the base, and also wild Missouri yeast.

Pours swiftly into tulip glasses and generates thick, lacy foam.

Fantastic! Some heavy wood character on this, more so than some of their other offerings (I also had the "Biere du Pays" and the "Provence Blueberry Rosehip".) I'm getting a main backbone of open fermented tartness, but more rounded, and deep in flavor. It's less piquant than their lighter, more fruit forward offerings. The touch of pinot sweetness mellows out the more astringent notes you might find, as well, and makes this beer wonderful to savor. 

Tabitha and Roilen behind the bar took great care of us, and I do believe Side Project deserves to be on any beer lover's list if they travel to The Gateway City. Bottle-fermented beers and Belgian/Flanders styles are really worth investigating if you haven't already, and it's cool that there's a whole place dedicated just to it!

Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. - St. Louis, Missouri

Hello from St. Louis! Recently I had the chance to spend a week travelling across Missouri, and of course, had to try the beer and food. No matter where you are in the world, with a few notable exceptions, you’ll find beer being brewed. For this trip, I started in St. Louis, a historic brewing city with well over a century and a half of experience making beer for the masses. Home to Anheuser Busch and Budweiser, the craft beer boom hasn’t skipped STL either...you've probably heard of Schlafly, as well. They're here. Also, Side Project Brewing, which I saw at SAVOR, is right here in St. Louis (and worth a visit! Stay tuned!) And many more! Too many to try in a few days. 

First up on my tour: Urban Chestnut. Everyone I spoke to raved about it. They’ve got two locations in St. Louis and one in Germany; the head brewer Florian is German so it’s natural that German styles feature here (after all, it was German immigrants who brought beer as we know it to North America!) So naturally, I expect a lot of German styles done correctly. 

Arriving via Uber, I pull up to what I can only describe as a warehouse complex. The place is massive, by the way. Much of the brewing apparatus are visible, out in the open, and available for tours. The industrial interior is well-attended, with long German-style tables forming the seating area. The concrete bar is maybe the longest I’ve ever seen. Truly "yuge." 

As per usual, when I’m in a new place, it’s time to try a sampler, which they don't offer per se but I cobbled together on my own:

• (L) - "Konomi" - Japanese lager, 20 IBUs, 5.40% ABV. Nice color, thin soap bubble head with a gentle aroma. It's got a touch of that sake dryness, a bit yeasty, with a good, long, lingering aftertaste. Here I'm getting wild wheat stalk flavors and a little bit more yeast. I like the weight of the beer too, it's light-to-medium and I think balances well the flavors, textures, and delivery. 
• (R) - "Balkan" - Helles Lager, 25 IBUs, 4.80% ABV. Nice hay color accompanied by a fine white cap of foam. Mild aroma, as to be expected, and presents an off-dry texture and notable soft grain flavor. Very tasty and refreshing, and a collab between UC and Balkan Treat Box restaurant in Webster Grove, MO. 

• (L) - "Fantasyland" - West Coast IPA, 6.00% ABV, 60 IBUs. One of the only IPAs on the menu, so I was curious how they approached the style. It's not as grassy as I was expecting, instead presenting tropical flavors like cantaloupe and mango. 60 IBUs is getting up there in bitterness, but I think the fruit balances that out a bit. Pretty solid and good for those who might not like German styles. 
• (R) - "Mercator" - Flemish red, 6.30% ABV, 15 IBUs Flemish sour ale...definitely has the nose! It's got the usual Flemish funk...very tart, no sweetness, tangy and acidic, but this one has more of a cherry angle to it, kinda like Ommegang's "Three Philosophers." It's also lighter than many Flanders ales so that's a plus. If I wasn't going to Side Project Brewing later in the day, I'd have had a second. 
•  (B) - "Dorfbier" - Munich-style Dunkel, 5.20% ABV, 20 IBUs. Definitely one of my favorites of the night...chewy, malty, rounded, and a touch sweet. Nice showing of malts, a bit of smoke, and very true to the style. I would expect no less from Florian, the brewer, to get this right. I actually went home with a 4pk, and had it with leftover barbeque a few nights later. Perfect for meat dishes, stews, or just relaxing on the deck in the fall!

WSET - II news! I passed!

 A quick note here - got my results back from my recent Wine & Spirits Education Trust level II exam in spirits, and I passed with a 98% - that's "with distinction." This industry certification is another feather in my cap and will increase my standing within the industry. 

Next stop - Sommelier level 1 in the spring!

Wine Makes the World Go 'Round - a Trip to Slate Wine Bar

Nestled in Glover Park, just west of the National Observatory, is a pair of restaurants that are somewhat hidden away; in fact, I passed right by twice before finally stepping inside. Slate, a wine bar, and Xiquet, a high-end Spanish concept, share this building on Wisconsin Ave. Xiquet, the brainchild of Chef Danny Lledó, received a MICHELIN Star in the 2021 DC Guide. This year, both Slate Wine Bar and Xiquet were nominated for best wine program at the RAMMYs, the annual Washington restaurant industry awards.

Xiquet’s menu, inspired by Chef's hometown of Dénia in the Valencian region of Spain, features a tasting menu experience including paella, as well as innovative preparations of other traditional items from Valencian cuisine. The menu changes monthly, and is in fact adjusted daily depending on what's fresh. A meal at Xiquet offers 22 takes on modern Spanish cuisine, including ingredients like octopus, tomatoes, cheese, caviar, anchovies, and even Wagyu beef. The blues, yellows, and earth tones in the painting in was commissioned and inspired by Dénia. 

I'll try the food another day, as I'm here for the booze. 

Betsy, the head bartender, graciously whips up a cocktail for me - the "Ferdinand", a lovely mix of brandy washed in Wagyu fat, Lillet rose wine, and pink Port. The ingredients are built in a mixing glass, added with cracked ice, and stirred with a barspoon then strained through a julep strainer. Add a big ol' ice cube and topped with a dried orange peel.

I really like it - it's my first fat-washed cocktail, and I think that aspect provides a savory balance to the sweetness of the Lillet and the Port wine. It's not super complex, but it's definitely a curious libation that demands focus and attention. 

One observation I have about the bar, and the service, is that Slate is not as technical as other cocktail places. This isn't a bad thing - here I'm noticing high-end service and traditional mixology, with little use of complex gadgets or acrobatics. While they do make their own garnishes, purees, and such, they don't use gimmicks or anything - just good, classical mixology. They've got a commendable list of spirits, and a selection of Sherry and Madeira that's wider than most places I've been to, and high-end Spanish vermouths (and vermuts) like Yzaguirre, so these classic European ingredients mirror both the old-world charm of the drink menu and the skill of Betsy and crew.

These olives are awesome - made with a house-blend of spices and oil.

But how does a sommelier put together a wine program? I was able to spend a few minutes with Chef himself to discuss.

"We have an obligation to educate, and provide great things...not just show off how great our wines are, or how great they work with food," Chef told me, "and we [like having] guests understand what they're drinking." To help accomplish this, Slate and Xiquet offers sommelier nights, introductory wine pairings with food, and themed dinners to help guests connect these dots. Chef also notes that it's about challenging pre-conceived notions...let's say a guest says they don't like Chardonnay. It could be because they had a bad experience once and decided to judge all examples of Chardonnay on that one particular glass. 

Chef actually travels around the world, talking to producers and distributors to bring the best wines to DC to help realize his creative vision. And there are some *great* wines on this list, for sure. It's separated out - the everyday and the rare, including introductory pairings and flights for guests to try new things. As much as I'd like to dive into the rare, I'm sticking with a by-the-glass menu. 

I spot "Arbui", a 2018 Monastrell from Bodegas Alejandro. I love Monastrell - you may see it by its French name, Mourvedre, and often appears in red blends but not as commonly on its own. This Monastrell is, as luck would have it, from Chef's home province of Valencia. As soon as I order, Chef Lledó turns to me and goes, "it's awesome." He should know, he picked it out. 

And he was right. Off-dry, well-structured, and deliciously savory, I'm picking up notes of earth, leather, and dry wood. There's a touch of sea salt at the end which is awesome, and as much as I wished I could try with the Wagyu beef burger, it went just fine with the olives. Betsy says wines like these "change with each sip" and I would agree - as oxygen mixes with the wine, new flavors come out and the glass of wine can change slightly. It's a fun journey and this wine shows that off pretty well. 

I caught sight of Chef ordering a bottle of bubbly, and being a fan of sparkling wine, I lustfully watched as he served a bottle of Bollinger 2007 (!!!!) to the guests adjacent. Wow! That's a pricey bottle for sure. Betsy, sensing that I was jonesing for a glass of sparkles, kindly arranged for me a glass of Dom Perignon 2012 brut...not at all a consolation prize, but in fact a wonderful glass of sublime, cool, low-dosage bubbly.  It's quite soft with low tang and low acidity, and has nice crispness and balance. Great for sipping and a perfect conclusion to an evening of exceptional food, drink, and service. 

Slate is a place I'll definitely recommend and return, especially when I'm seeking an intimate atmosphere, a high-end & refined wine list, and a level of service to match. 

Colombia en DC: A Visit to Elcielo in Union Market

While my blog tends to focus on beverages, every so often I like to talk about a restaurant experience as a whole. Recently I had the chance to visit Elcielo, a new South American concept restaurant by Juan Manuel Barrientos, and I'd like to share my observations. Juanma, as he is known, is an accomplished chef, business leader, and entrepreneur who's managed and opened almost a dozen restaurants across the world. Elcielo is actually part of a small chain, with two locations in Colombia, one in Miami and the newest in Washington. Elcielo earned one MICHELIN star in 2021, and in this year's rankings, retained that star. 

Union Market, with humble beginnings, seems to be the newest place for high-end concepts, and so it's no surprise Juanma chose to open his latest iteration of Elcielo here. Warehouse districts, as Union Market is/was, provide wide open spaces for restauranteurs to truly craft to their liking — Elcielo is open and airy, with lots of natural light, blonde wood furniture, smooth lines, and gold accents. 

Above the building there are condos, and I'd need an extra zero at the end of my paycheck to consider living there. 

There are a series of small tables sprinkled throughout the dining room, however I choose to sit at the bar, front and center, to watch the magic. 

To my left, a couple around my age enjoying a romantic evening. To my right, two spirits professionals representing several families of Scotch whisky brands, chatting about fancy Ardbeg offerings. Orlando and Andres are the experts behind the bar, and Pedro is managing the house. Everyone is gracious, welcoming, and attentive.

The cocktail program is heavily influenced by Central and South American spirits, flavors, and textures: agave spirits like mezcal share a menu with herbal flavors and fruits like soursop and yuzu, alongside more familiar "tropical" flavors like coconut, tangerine, papaya, and passion fruit. Distilled spirits by the ounce are available on the menu, and scanning the bar, there's a well-curated stock which I'm sure I could try neat if I so desired. 

But this isn't the place to "do shots" - it's a place to appreciate some of the most refined mixology DC has to offer. 

Elcielo's centerpiece is the Experience menu, which is a gastronomic adventure that courses through countries, cultures, land and sea — 22 small courses in all. This menu weaves through crab empanadas, blood sausage, cocktails, squash, duck, halibut, lamb, salad, yuca, apples, rockfish, and much more. At $228, with an additional $150 wine pairing menu, this is the crown jewel of Elcielo's menu and even includes sensory experiences like, believe it or not, washing one's hands in chocolate, or eating fresh-baked bread served on a wire bonsai tree. 

If that is a bridge too far, a few of these offerings can be ordered from the bar experience: a pared-down program which costs $120 per person and includes four handcrafted cocktails (or mocktails if one prefers NA versions) a pairing with some snacks and small bites, and a dessert. 

I opted to order just one dish off the bar menu to start, and was promptly delivered this dish of yuca gnocchi:

The yuca gnocchi are served with mushrooms, honey and cilantro, and topped with foamed Appalachian cheese and queso fresco. Honestly, this is one of the best pasta dishes I have had. Honey is the dominant texture here, with the foamed cheese and natural oils delivering a mouth-coating array of flavors. I would have licked the plate if Pedro wouldn't disapprove. 

The wine list is quite respectable, with some rather high-end offerings and prices to match, and as much as I'd like a glass or three of wine, I'm sticking to cocktails.

You may recall, in the picture of the bar above, Orlando is expressing something into these little cups. This is a soursop sorbet, over which is floated Champagne, and accompanies this mistela, a little vial filled with aguardiente and passionfruit, meant to be taken on its own. It's served in a wooden bowl on a bed of coffee beans and rosemary, and accompanies my gnocchi.

I like the dichotomy here: the soursop puree is light and airy, with a hint to vegetal flavors, whereas the mistela is assertive, almost like a Colombian digestif. I would much prefer this to Underberg. The puree is almost like a dessert, and actually perfect for me as I don't eat sweets.

As this is digesting and I'm enjoying the interplay of flavors, now it's time to test the skills of Andres and Orlando, and so I order a cocktail off the menu: the "Chimberito."

The Chimberito is a cocktail made with two sugarcane spirits: aguardiente and cachaça. Although the term has been used to refer to a general class of sugarcane spirits, modern drinkers will be familiar with this beverage as something truly Colombian. DC drinkers, in particular, would be familiar with Dan Zeigler's "Chacho", a jalapeno aguardiente made locally and quite delicious.

Cachaça is likely less familiar. It's produced in Brazil, and in fact is one of the most popular alcoholic beverages there. Water-white and pungent, it's frequently used in tropical drinks and the most famous Brazilian cocktail, the Caiprinha. It's catching on here in the US and is available in unaged (prata) and aged (ouro).

So these two spirits form the base for the Chimberito, which is then built by the addition of yuzu, soursop (guanábana), and thyme, garnished with a dried lime and served over cracked ice. It's quite sublime - a little grassy, a product no doubt of the cachaça, with a dash of funk and banana creaminess that I suspect is from the soursop. The cracked ice prevents gulping, which you wouldn't want to do anyways — this is to be savored.

For my final cocktail, I ask Orlando to make me something off-the-menu. Dealer's choice, I call it. I challenge bartenders to get creative, make something fun and off the wall. This gives them a canvas to test out a new recipe, maybe. 

Orlando challenges me. What kind of spirit? What textures? What ingredients do I like? He's asking me the questions he needs to. I choose mezcal, and he goes from there.

Here's what we settled on:

• Fidencio mezcal (base spirit of the cocktail)
• Dolin blanc vermouth
• Ancho Reyes poblano liqueur
• Cappelletti Elisir Novasalus (red vermouth)
• Chile syrup
• Lemongrass
• Saline solution

I don't know why I said "we." I had no part in the creation of this masterpiece other than the choice of mezcal.

The cocktail is built then strained into a rocks glass, but not before the ice cube is briefly heated with a culinary torch. Then, a heated press is applied to the top of the ice, melting it just slightly to deboss 'elcielo' onto the top. Then, cherry juice is dripped into the letters to provide contrast. The whole cocktail is then smoked with cherry wood under a glass bulb.

The aroma is of smoke and wood, sort of like the inside of an antique dresser. Smoking cocktails is a big thing these days, and mostly serves to enhance the presentation — a common concern here. The cocktail itself, for having so many ingredients, is remarkably well-built: the root flavors of the Novasalus pairs nicely with the sweet spice of the Ancho Reyes, and the mezcal provides a salty and powerful finish. A perfect sipper as I compile my notes about the visit. 

For fun, I was given a small plate of jam to try, along with a super-secret salt and herb blend. Even something as straightforward as a plate of salt is complex, crafted, and serves a sensory purpose. It's very neat to see the craft displayed here and how great energy is expended in refining very minute parts of the menu. 

Elcielo is part of DC's newest generation of finest-dining, and I heartily recommend it. No, it's not an every day spot, but a great place for a romantic dinner or special occasion. The craft, the food, drinks, and service are well worth the price, and their MICHELIN star is well-deserved.